Parts needed to adapt the T5 into the Ranger

[cgrey8]

I also found a guy that makes/sells adapters that convert those odd Ford fittings into a threaded -AN4 I believe.





He's a member on RPS, mdntranger50.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... php?u=1450

Having these and a nice flexable hose would sure be more convenient than dealing with that factory hard plastic line that I've got now.

As soon as I can get more info (cost, email address, etc), I'll post.

[cgrey8]

For anybody interested, here's a CAD drawing of the special fitting that will allow you to use a -4AN fitting. With this drawing, a local machine shop should be able to fab you up a few of these:



For an AutoCad *.dwg drawing, click here:
FordClutchFitting.dwg

[superchazz]

i to am trying to figure out this puzzle , the other day i was working on an f-150 and it used that slave cylinder that was in your pics , however it is pushing back , unlike what we need, i am using the t-5 pre 93 bellhousing
and i found a old hyundai external slave cylinder and made a bracket and i also made a adjustable push rod, i dont know how well this will work ? i think im going to scrap this idea and start over, but i dont know how yet? i could never did get a hold of total performance to order the kit so.....
im looking for some kinda adapter , i guesse, or im going to make a custom line, i cant believe how difficult this is to make this work !
keep in mind that you want a slave with the bleeder on top, not sure where it is on f-150 slave , and no matter what the throw is you can make an adjustable rod to adjust . not much throw distace is needed to open
the clutch. also another thought is we could use the upper master fitting and get a braided hose made with the other end whatever we need . hmmmm ,

[cgrey8]

The pics I have posted above are of an 83-84 Ranger slave...specifically the Ranger with a 2.8L engine. The 2.3L engine in those years use the same slave as the F-150. F-150's used an odd slave that "clipped" onto the bell housing about where the Mustang's clutch cable threaded through on the T5 bells and you are right, they did push the clutch fork backwards due to the pivot point being between the slave and the throwout instead of on the other side of the throwout as T5 bells are oriented.

In this application, you'd need to fab a mounting plate in about the same place the Total Performance clutch is located and mount the slave to that. However different from Total Performance setup, this slave requires a flat piece of metal, not a piece of angle-iron. If you are going to take advantage of having the slave push on the outer hole of the clutch fork, you'll need to mount this slave further away from the bell. Although I don't see a problem with using a piece of threaded bar and some bolts with washers in order to "snug" the slave closer to the bell if you are concerned about room.

A guy at TRS has already implemented this slave on his Ranger swap. I have pics posted of his setup over there.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/ ... 8354&st=40

Look toward the bottom of the page for his pics...notice he even figured out he could reuse the Ranger line.

[Elect666]

I was able to make the slave work with sure success.....I'm sure you are wondering what the second rod is for. If you try the 84 Ranger slave setup and you mount it the way I did. You will see that the slave isnt strong enough to start the prosess it self or you could say... it's not close enough to the fork.
So where the second rod goes from the fork to the cable eye, with a spring two washers and a nut.

Chris ....The whole idea came from your pics....did you have had problems with the clutch engaging?

[cgrey8]

My setup is still on the engine stand and the original engine still right where the factory put it. I'm hoping to get to the point of pulling the 2.9L VERY soon. My downgrading of the Explorer motor to support a Mustang computer is coming close to complete. All sensors have been replaced with Mustang sensors, the EGR line is now fabbed, and the L&L motor mounts are modified and waiting to be installed for fitment.

I don't know of much else I can do with the engine on the stand. So here in the next week or so, I'll be looking at pulling the old motor and cleaning up the engine bay as well as replacing the factory coils with the Ranger heavy duty springs (Advance Auto Parts CC866 springs). I've also got James Duff suspension bushings to get installed to replace the factory rubber bushings. I also have the 8.8" rearend to get modified and installed into the truck along with the James Duff traction bars. Next, the installation of the high-flow fuel pump. And finally the AC box mods.

That's alot of work still to go, but once all that is complete, you'll see more pics of the engine in the truck, not on the stand. At least that's the plan right now.

[cgrey8]

Well many months later, I've gotten to point of fabbing a clutch slave mounting plate for that 83-84 Ranger 2.8L clutch slave shown above.





Notice I have two sets of holes for the clutch slave to mount to. The Mustang clutch fork has two holes in it, one where the Mustang clutch cable threads through (larger hole on the inside) and a smaller hole that the cable actually lands in towards the outside of the fork. Right now the plan is to see if I can get the existing rod to push where the Mustang cable pulled. The pushrod and that indention seem made for eachother, however as a contengency if that doesn't work and I need to resort to the threaded-rod method like the Total Performance setup, then I already have the holes drilled in the plate to do so.

A note for anybodly that wants to reuse the basic design, notice how the channel lines are not parallel. If I had it to do over again, I'd have followed the angle of the clutch fork. I had nothing to begin with except guesses of what would work and I just kept cutting metal until I got what worked. In the beginning, I was afraid of making the channel perfectly parallel with the fork because I thought I might have a bolt hole in that area. Turns out, the bolt holes are just below and making the channel parallel with the fork would've been ok.

Anybody that wants actual dimensions, let me know now while my bell is still not mounted in.

[Elect666]

Chris are you mounting the slave on the front or back side of your bracket and did you find a hose hookup for the slave?
Good looking bracket.
Elect666

[cgrey8]

I'm reusing the factroy quick-connect that was on the internal slave. Seems to work great and I can reuse the Ranger hardline that's already contoured over the frame.

The slave will be mounted to the back surface (the surface you see in the pics). That's about the only way you can based on the way the clutch slave is shaped.

I guess technically, you could cut relief channels in the plate and mount it on the front of the plate (side you can't see of the plate), but I didn't see the benefit in going to all that trouble. The throw and pushrod of the clutch slave are more than long enough it appears.

Since the slave can't be bled while mounted to the plate, I'll have to connect it, open the allen nut to allow it to bleed while the slave hangs with the allen nut being the highest point. That way any air bubbles inside the slave get floated out. Once it's bled, I can close the allen nut and mount the slave to the plate.

As for the looks, paint does alot! However with another stab at making that plate, I'm sure I could come up with a better design, but I didn't need to when I got this one to work. Besides, drilling those holes was a pain. 1/4" steel doesn't drill with the greatest of ease. However Dewalt cutting disks go through that metal like butter.

Just out of curiosity, where should the clutch fork be? Will it float pretty much dead center of the hole in the bell it sticks out of? Between fully engaged and disengaged, how much distance does the slave have to travel? I'm assuming a little over an inch, or is that just a stupid question?

[cgrey8]

I am also looking to convert my truck to a land speeder. I need a flux capacitor and some anti grav units if anyone has any.

[Elect666]

Thats what I'm talking about -Land Speeder!!!!
Well my clutch fork is closer to the clutch then it is center and the throw of the slave is very deceiving. I wish it would throw the length of the rod.There is a little spring in there as you can feel. But once you install the clutch you will see what I mean.I think the clutch is week but it works very well, with the extra rod I installed. I will have to send you pics.
If I was able to mount the slave on the other side of my bracket I dont think I would need the extra rod. The slave need to be closer to the fork.
But every set up is different. Like mine I used 1/4" flat steel and believe it or not it flexes. Another bracket attached to the center of the existing bracket has stoped the flexing and has helped on the travel of the pedal.
Yours being channel you may not have that problem. The stock connector does work good you just need to make sure that you have it pointed the right way. It being plastic it will push to the side really easy, so beware.
Elect666

[cgrey8]

I found the same true...the fork is closer to the clutch than it is center with the bellhousing hole and based on your comments, I may go ahead and make the mods to the plate so I can mount the slave in front of the plate, instead of behind it.

The slave has 4 supporting ribs that go from the sides of the slave down to the plastic plate where the bolts are. At the angle I have the slave mounting, only two of the 4 ribs are an interference with the plate. A simple hit with the cutter to clearance the plate where those ribs are would take care of that problem locating the slave 1/4" closer to the fork. It won't be as difficult to do as I thought.

[87sc302]

I just installed a T5 in my Ranger (87 Xcab early model 302 ). I used a 280Z slave cylinder ($13) at Autozone.. My drive shaft fit after the swap( removed AOD). No cutting?
I also had moved the crosssmenber when I installed the AOD after removing the C4 I originally had installed in the ranger. The AOD transmission mount bolted up on the T5.

[cgrey8]

I'd only heard of using the 280Z slave, but at the time I decided to go this route, there was nobody available to give me an idea as to how the 280Z slave worked...pros or cons. So I found the 83-84 slave option which looks like it'll work pretty good too. But it is a bit more than $13.

[87sc302]

I just finished my swap of AOD to T5 last weekend using the 280Z slave and the stock master cylinder. The power difference is unbelievable. This is the third tranny in my truck first C4 then AOD now the T5. I have put about 100 miles on the truck with the T5.