1994 Ranger Build. Questions

[Smokeoreilly]

First time on this site, but I've done my research, just have a few loose ends I was hoping you guy could help me with.
Ive got a 94 Ranger standard cab, 2wd, 2.3.

Ive been searching for weeks on what parts to get for the swap and what parts are the hardest to find and which ones work with which.

Ive got my hands on a 97 Mountaineer 5.0 doner car, running and driving perfectly fine right now.

Ive got my list of parts to buy for the swap just wanted to run over the basics, if anyone has any other insight or corrections to my list I would greatly appreciate it.

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Here's the stuff that I've learned from the site...

V6 Ranger Radiator

Fox body vert motor mounts or summit racing Trans-dapt 9717 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9717)

Oil pan: Mustang GT oil pan
95 gt pickup / screen
pan gasket

I will use the 8.8 Mountaineer Rear Diff

Summit Racing oil filter relocation kit

Driveshaft: I've read that the yolk will fit into a T5 but Im assuming it will need to be shortened and balanced, there is a local driveshaft shop around where I live

Trans mount: from reading i can use a piece of steel to connect top of the T5 to the existing crossmember mounts

Slave cylinder: my 94 came equipped with the internal slave cylinder with the quick connect hydraulic lines.
---280zx slave with angle iron?
---Convert the connection off of my master cylinder to a normal line? then what are my options for an external slave?
---Conversion connectors (http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/br ... _fit.shtml)

I have a few leads on a transmisson T5 from a fox body.
--my concerns are the flywheel and starter
----which do i use, will the stock mountaineer 50oz flywheel and starter work with the t5 from a fox?

headers: since its a GT40p my options are limited. Stock manifolds seem to be restrictive,
---MAC? clearance issues? with the steering gear box?


I believe those are all the hard parts i need
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WIRING

Ive been told that a 93 engine harness and ecu would be the way to go

93 GT Engine ECU and engine harness
---thoughts, this is where my biggest struggle is
---difficulty with the mountaineer motor?
---how hard is it, is there a wiring diy diagram on here or out there

[cgrey8]

...V6 Ranger Radiator...

Sometimes even the V6 came with a single core. What you are looking for is the optional dual core usually only found on automatic 4wds.

...Fox body vert motor mounts or summit racing Trans-dapt 9717 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9717)...

There's been a number of discussions here about which mounts work. Bottom line is, most any mount will work with caveats.

The stock Ranger mounts will work if you redrill the crossmember to locate them lower in the engine bay. Then use a flat 1/4" steel plate to bolt to the engine and hold the engine to the stock mounts. Rangers usually had a V6 and an L4 (round fluid filled) mount. Both have been used with modest to moderate V8 conversions. The mounts you mention have also been used by people.
And then there's the L&L mounts which for your year may or may not be a bolt-in solution. They were for me, but my truck is an 89. Malcolm's Red Ranger was a 92 I think? And his L&Ls did not bolt right in. He had to drill anyway despite paying the L&L premium for mounts.

...Oil pan: Mustang GT oil pan
95 gt pickup / screen
pan gasket...

Any dual sump 302 pan will work. I don't know that it matters, but I used the 89-93 Mustang screen. I have no clue if it's the same as the 94-95 Mustang or not.

...I will use the 8.8 Mountaineer Rear Diff...

The discs are a nice upgrade, but be forewarned it is not a bolt-in solution. There's work with getting it in there. Shock mounts and spring perches are not where they are supposed to be so there some cutting and welding involved. And the parking brake cabling may require some creativity. But when you are done, you'll have rear disc which looks sharp with "open" rims that show through.

Oh and if the diffy is a limited slip, now would be a perfect time to do a compete rebuild of the rearend...when it is out of the truck. You can identify stock limited slip units by the italics L that's cast into the top of the pumpkin. You can also look on the rearend tag too. Most Explorers are 3.73 REs so somewhere you should see a 3 73 (note the space between the 3 and 73). If the rear is a limited slip, it'll likely be a 3L73 on the tag.

At the very least if it is a limited slip diffy, replace the wheel seals and clutches in the limited slip clutch pack even if you don't do a complete tear down and rebuild. Remember to also get the friction modifier additive that you put in the rearend fluid when buying a replacement clutch pack. I'm sure there are kits that sell them together. And before installation, soak the clutches in friction modifier before installing them. Very important.

There's also an upgrade to the stock limited slip setup available. It's up to you whether you want to upgrade to the 4 disc sandwich or stay with the stock 3 disc setup. If you have no clue what I'm talking about, don't worry about it. Stay with the stock setup. I don't know that the upgrade is really worth it.

...Summit Racing oil filter relocation kit...

I, personally, wouldn't go that route. The Summit kit I used years ago used barbed fittings and regular push-on rubber hose of which leaked for more years than it stayed tight. If it does come with crimped lines today, they are almost guaranteed to not be long enough unless you plan to mount the filter inside the engine bay or right on the DS frame.

Instead what I would recommend you do is go to eBay and search for the oil fiilter bracket from TransDapt. It's only about $25 shipped. That will hold your oil filter and now you mount that wherever is most convenient. I've had mine mounted on the passenger side right behind the bumper (almost in front of the PS tire) since the mid 90s. Talk about a dream to change the oil on. Easy as can be. Back then, the kit was a Summit Racing kit with the barbed fittings and the spin-on adapter for the engine. However you won't be able to use the straight spin-on style adapter. You'll really want to spend the money on an L&L oil filter adapter which runs the lines out at an 90 degree angle. Canton also makes a slightly cheaper adapter to do this, but it's a little thicker. My advice, spend the money on the L&L. It's a quality product and worth the money. There are places to budget and places to spend a little extra. This is one of the places not to skimp.

And once you've gotten all that, then go to a hydraulic shop with both adapters and have custom oil lines made up the length that you need them. Again, this is a place to spend a little money as opposed to the barbed fittings and hose clamps. You won't regret taking the time and spending the extra money on custom lines...unless of course you short your hose length.

However if you are bound and determined to use the cheapest thing possible, TransDapt does make a spin-on 90 degree filter too. It's a PITA since you don't get to dictate where the hoses point. It has fittings on 2 sides for hoses. You block 2 off and use the side that routes the hoses the easiest. Unfortunately if the adapter needs to have the hoses pointed up in order to be tight on the engine, but your hoses need to be pointed slightly down, guess what? Tough. What would make that setup a little more tolerable is if they sold it with say 2-3 different rubber gaskets that are different thicknesses. Then if one gasket didn't locate your hoses where you needed them when the adapter was tight, swap out for a different thickness gasket and it would.

...Driveshaft: I've read that the yolk will fit into a T5 but Im assuming it will need to be shortened and balanced, there is a local driveshaft shop around where I live...

My stock manual transmission yoke fit right into my T5. However I've heard that some Ranger automatics used a different yoke. The good news is yokes for T5s should be fairly easy to come by in a junk yard or on eBay. If it doesn't fit, don't fork out money for a NEW one. This is a place to find the cheapest option if yours doesn't work out.

...Trans mount: from reading i can use a piece of steel to connect top of the T5 to the existing crossmember mounts...

Yep. I mounted my stock Ranger trans mount right onto the T5. Then I drilled a 6"x6"x1/4" steel plate for the trans and the crossmember. With a few extra bolts, washers, and nuts from Lowes, I had a working trans mount without relocating the stock crossmember. It's been that way since 06.

...Slave cylinder: my 94 came equipped with the internal slave cylinder with the quick connect hydraulic lines.
---280zx slave with angle iron?
---Convert the connection off of my master cylinder to a normal line? then what are my options for an external slave?
---Conversion connectors (http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/br ... _fit.shtml)...

There are numerous threads already detailing these options out. I reused all the stock components including the hydraulinc line and used an 83-84 Ranger external slave. A modified 6"x6"x1/4" steel plate was cut and drilled to hold the slave and mount to the side of the bell housing. Then as a pushrod, I used a modified carriage bolt, washer, and a couple of nuts to slightly preload the clutch fork so I could actually declutch. This has worked pretty well. Although there are other options.

I would NOT waste money on a "custom" Ranger conversion kit.

...I have a few leads on a transmisson T5 from a fox body.
--my concerns are the flywheel and starter
----which do i use, will the stock mountaineer 50oz flywheel and starter work with the t5 from a fox?...

The starter from the Mountaineer will work. I'm using the Explorer starter myself in my Ranger. However the flywheel will not because the Mountaineer was an automatic and has a flexplate, not a flywheel. You'll need to find a Mustang flywheel (50oz balance, 157 tooth count I believe?)

...headers: since its a GT40p my options are limited. Stock manifolds seem to be restrictive,
---MAC? clearance issues? with the steering gear box?...

The budget upgrade is to get rid of the crappy tune headers and use the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds that Explorer/Mountaineers ran from ~99-01.
If you can find them, the FMS Explorer headers are also a good fit. That's what I have.

The MAC headers might work, but I would expect the same issues as any other Mustang header, clearance with the passenger side frame. That causes you to have to notch the frame about 1/2 to 3/4" to make clearance for the exhaust pipe to land on the header. I don't know of a problem with the steering box. That's a significant distance from the headers that I don't see how that could cause an issue.

Torque Monster headers are the premium option. And even they may have issues in your engine bay. They were designed to be Explorer headers and work in an Explorer engine bay. In 95-newer Rangers, the engine bay is similar enough to an Explorer engine bay that they can work there too. However in 94-older, things are a LOT tighter and I don't know a single person out there that has successfully used TMs in this era Ranger.

...I believe those are all the hard parts i need...

If you are reusing the stock EEC, then there may not be that much more although I would count on there being a few surprises that crop up like trying to find a PS hose that fits your steering box and bolts to your Explorer PS pump. That's either a custom job or you'll need to modify the tube bend in a stock Ranger hose.

I also didn't hear anything about mechanical fan vs pusher fan. You can probably reuse the mechanical fan and shroud IF you do a good job at locating the engine as far back in the engine bay as possible and keep the single-core radiator. However if you upgrade to the dual core radiator, you won't be able to get the stock Explorer mechanical fan down there to mount it on the engine. I looked all over for someone that made a flex fan to fit on Explorer water pumps, but I was never successful. So I stuck with the pusher fan option. I haven't regretted it.

Another detail I haven't heard yet is mating fuel line differences. On my 89 Ranger, the fuel lines were different and required I make a fuel line adapter to adapt the differences. However your 94 might be new enough to where the supply and return line are the right size and gender to plug right up to the Explorer engine without any trouble. But you'll want to check on that.

...Ive been told that a 93 engine harness and ecu would be the way to go

93 GT Engine ECU and engine harness
---thoughts, this is where my biggest struggle is
---difficulty with the mountaineer motor?
---how hard is it, is there a wiring diy diagram on here or out there

As for EEC and wiring, if you are retrofitting the engine to work with an 89-93 Mustang computer, then there will be lots of odds and ends things that will be needed to do that. For example, you'll need to ditch the coil packs & cam sensor and run a TFI distributor. And to make that work, you'll need to modify the Explorer accessory bracket (minor modification). Then you'll need to replace the ACT/ECT/MAF sensors. If you are going to reuse the EGR, you'll need to modify the EGR system to work with 89-93 Mustang (Sonic) EGR systems. The stock 97 Explorer EGR is a DPFE system. The 96 Explorer actually used a Sonic system and if you can locate a 96 Explorer intake elbow, use that and the 96 EGR. They are compatible with 89-93 Mustang computers. And keeping the EGR doesn't buy you out of the need to retune the computer to disable the thermactor (smog pump) and retune the computer for the 97 Explorer orange injectors.

However in your case of a 94, I don't know that the 89-93 Mustang EEC conversion is really the right way to go. You are probably better off sticking with the stock computer (probably a n XDT2) particularly since 94 Rangers locate the EEC in neither the stock 97 Explorer/Mountaineer location nor the stock 89-93 Mustang location. Either way, you'll be doing wire-stretching and retuning to the computer to get things the way they need to be.

[Smokeoreilly]

My truck is manual now. Will my current driveshaft work. And how much is it to send out the mountaineer Ecu to get rid of PATS through you're eectuning. And can I re use factory harness with the maf and fuel rail.

As for the distributor is that hard to convert from coil packs

[cgrey8]

EECTuning.org is a forum, like this forum, for DIY tuners to discuss and collaborate. There are some individuals on the forum that do work like that for a price. But I don't represent them. You'd need to post up the exact questions you have and what it is you want done in the tune.

If you have a 97 Explorer EEC (catch code XDT2) then you don't have to worry about PATS. PATS didn't get introduced until 98.

But you will need the transmission controls disabled so the EEC isn't expecting trans feedback when there is no 4R70w automatic trans to feed info back from. Another detail to learn will be how VSS works. Some Explorers pulled vehicle speed from the ABS system. Others from a VSS sensor. I can't remember if the 97 Explorer did so via VSS or ABS. You'll need to investigate what the EEC has and what you don't have first. A great place to start is over there on that forum.

As for your driveshaft, the short answer is yes it should work, but may require being shortened. But first, is the truck extended cab or std cab? If it is extended, you won't want to use the 2-piece driveshaft. Those were junk. Replace with a 1 piece and eliminate the crossmember holding the current 2 piece driveshaft's carrier bearing.

BTW, if you post over there notice that the rules for posting is much stricter. The Best Practices thread explains everything that is expected. So read through that before posting.

[Smokeoreilly]

I have a standard cab 2wd 5speed 2.3l

How can I check the mountaineer Ecu for pats--pull it out?

With your experience what Ecu and harness would be the best to use on this swap

My 2.3 has 8 spark plugs

And do you mean using the stock ranger Ecu or mountaineer Ecu

[cgrey8]

I have a standard cab 2wd 5speed 2.3l...

Good. You can disregard all the details about extended cabs then.

...How can I check the mountaineer Ecu for pats--pull it out?...

Look at it and get the BIG letters and numbers off of it. If it is an XDT2, then it doesn't have PATS.

...With your experience what Ecu and harness would be the best to use on this swap...

If I was doing your swap with my experience of have done a swap AND all my knowledge of EECs, I'd be reusing the Explorer EEC. It's newer and will require less parts since you won't have to retrofit anything. But it would require that I buy the def file for the 97 Explorer for my tuning software.

...And do you mean using the stock ranger Ecu or mountaineer Ecu

I wouldn't attempt to use the stock Ranger EEC to run a V8. The only choices I would consider are keep the Explorer EEC or retrofit the engine to an older Mustang EEC and harness. But given the year of your Ranger, my recommendation would be stick with the 97 Explorer EEC and harness...just less work all the way around.

[Smokeoreilly]

There won't be any problems re using the explorer harness with a t5

[cgrey8]

Oh I'm sure you'll run into issues like the neutral switch connector isn't the same shape as the one that was on the 4R70w automatic. But that's nothing a little wire cutting and resoldering can't fix. Of course you will need to procure a connector that WILL fit on your neutral switch so you have something to solder onto the Explorer harness. But that will be the least of your concerns. Bigger concerns are going to be all the wire stretches that will be involved in getting the EEC relocated from where the 97 Explorer/Mountaineer located it to where your 94 Ranger locates the EEC. It's not hard work, but it is tedious. Very tedious.

Oh and another thing I expect you'll want disabled in your tune are the secondary HEGOs that tattle on you if the CATs go bad/missing.

[Smokeoreilly]

I found this under the good today. So with the info you told me. I do not have PATS. so that just made the wiring a lot easier.

[cgrey8]

I figured it'd be the XDT2 being it's a 97 year.

You'll want to reuse as much as you can from the donor such as the wiring harness, MAF sensor, air filter box, HEGOs, etc.

Likewise almost nothing from the Ranger's engine will be reusable. Consider any Ranger engine specific sensors/wiring as stuff you'll rip out. However wiring that can't be unplugged and removed will be wiring you'll mate the donor's wiring harness to. This is where things get tedious and technical regardless which EEC you use and having wiring diagrams of both the 97 Explorer and 94 Ranger along with a volt meter with an audible continuity tester will be invaluable at helping you know what wire in the 97 Explorer engine harness goes to what harness and pin in the Ranger.

If you don't care about your existing engine's wiring harness and have no intentions to sell/reuse the Ranger engine/wiring, then you can clip all the connectors off the stock engine harness to splice onto the Explorer wiring. However if you don't want to do that, go to a junk yard and clip those same connectors off some 93-94 Ranger. Note, some connectors may have 4 or 8 possible pin connections, but Ford may not have actually used all 8 pins. But what is common is that a V6 might use 6-7 pins, but the L4 only used say 5 pins. So make sure whatever engine connectors you clip has at least as many wires coming out as your engine harness uses. That may not matter. Then again, it might.

Now the scary part is completely unlooming the Explorer harness to identify every wire in the harness and find where it needs to go in the Ranger engine bay. Some wires will be too long, many will be too short and require you solder extra length to them (wire-stretching) so they'll reach the Ranger connector. Again, this isn't hard work. It's just tedious. And it is quite overwhelming to see the spider web of wires in front of you until you get out your wiring diagrams and start writing down which wires need to go where. Use pencil so you can erase. And make sure to write very clearly (no fast scribbling). You'll make frequent use of these notes as you progress through modifying the harness to work for you.

When you are done and all wires are loomed back together, the Explorer engine harness should plug right up to the Ranger just like it was stock. What you do not want to do is directly solder engine harness wires to Ranger engine bay wires. This makes for a terrible experience if you ever have to pull the engine in the future or diagnose a connection problem. Just last year, I pulled my 302 and dropped a 331 in. You don't know how much I was thanking myself for going to this trouble. Everything unplugged, came out, and reconnected right back up when the 331 was in with no issues.