motor mounts 96 2wd

[Blk87]

Hi guys Im looking into doing a swap to a 96 ranger 2wd automatic trans std cab. I would like to know your choice in motor mounts and any problems with that trans(4r70w). Im trying sort out the placementof the engine and tranny now. I just started the install and hope your follow the build thanks for your replys.............

[cgrey8]

I think 2wd Explorer 5.0L mounts work.

[Grumpy]

i opted for the L&L mounts... they are nice but a bit pricey ... and work really well ....

[Chris]

I also used the L&L mounts but after cgrey8's mounts broke, I'm a little concerned. The 4R70W is a good trans if built properly. What year is the trans?

[Grumpy]

ANY rubber and steel mounts will break .... and if mine break like his did... im just goin to take whats left of them and go to a buddies house and he and i will make some SOLID mounts the same dimensions as the L&L ones............ down to the mm ... that way they will NEVER break again .... anyway... that is my game plan .... lol

oh i dunno if anyone has seen it.. but Hamburgers Oil Pans has made a low profile oil filer relocation block adapter ..... here is the site .... http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/SI ... tion-Units just thought i would share that.....

[Chris]

I've seen high horsepower mustangs that get beat on using stock mounts without fail. He had a stock explorer engine and the mounts look like they're coming apart. I'm just gonna keep a close eye on mine and replace them with the stock 302 mounts when they fail. Maybe even before that. I'll agree, they did make the V8 install a literal drop in. I don't know, perhaps he just had a fluke. I guess I'll find out for myself since I won't be as easy on my truck as he was on his. I will beat the snot out of this thing.

[cgrey8]

The only one I saw that was PH8A that would work for us is this one:


The problem I see with this one is the same as the other spin-on adapters. You don't get to choose where the hoses end up pointing. You have to deal with whatever position ends up being "tight." Add to that, this design requires that at least one hose come out the back. The cheaper ones actually have 4 ports so you can choose which side you want to use based on where "tight" ends up being. Notice:


The Canton and L&L adapters have a bolt that holds them on so the base can swivel to whatever position works best for the hoses. That's worth the extra money to me.

As for my L&L motor mounts, they are doing fine. But it's only been a few months. Time will tell. However with a 95-newer Ranger taking a 302, I would default to the Explorer mounts. I believe the crossmember in a 2wd Ranger and 2wd Explorer are the same. I could be wrong on that, but if they are, the Explorer mounts should also be a drop-in. You would need to fabricate plates for the engine OR find a set of motor mount plates off an Explorer to use.

[Grumpy]

you are correct cgrey ... i didnt even notice it was a spin on and didnt have the center bolt..... my bad... so i retract my last post...... lmao ..... good eye by the way ......

[Blk87]

just called for the L&L mounts. I just want to drop this in and set the location for the trans and go. You guys that have used them can i get the motor back as far as I can with these mounts any other problem you can think of thanks....,.,.

[cgrey8]

The mounts are a bolt-in solution, but I've found they are a pain to get bolted down tight. There's a bit of a procedure you'll figure out. If you bolt down the bases tight to the crossmember and then bolt the engine mounts to the block, you'll have one hell of a time getting them to align so you can get the big center bolt through to hold them together.

So what I had to do is:

• Loose-bolt both brackets and block mount bar. Getting the washers and nuts onto the 4 bracket bolts can be a pain. I used silicone gasket on the washers to hold them in place while I was getting the nuts on their respective bolts.
• Use the slop of being loosely bolted down as a means to get the center bolt the hold them together. But only push the center pin through part way, just enough to get through both holes of the bracket.
• With a box wrench, tighten the engine mounts down to the block. And BTW use silicone or locktite on the threads or those bolts may back out over time. In fact, when that happened to me is probably how my mounts got damaged in the 1st place.
• Push the center bolts through all the way and get their washers and nuts on.
• Drop the engine down onto the crossmember
• Tighten the 4 bolts holding the brackets to the crossmember. The DS isn't too terrible to get at. But the PS can be a pain.

I tried a few different procedures and this one is the one that seemed to work best for me. Perhaps others will find a better procedure that works best for them.

My original bolt package did not use locking nuts. And I found they too would back off over time. So I learned to put a dab of silicone gasket on the exposed threads of all 4 bracket bolts so the nuts wouldn't back off those bolts. However the bolt package that came with my replacement mounts came with lock nuts so that should no longer be an issue.

Oh yeah, and I also had to file down the engine mounts so they would fit between the brackets. As delivered, they are just slightly wider than the brackets so they don't slide down between the bracket...at least not easily. A few minutes of filing the round part that the center bolt goes through solved that problem.

[Chris]

I had to drill a hole in the crossmember for the passenger side mount on my '90. Your '96 may be different. As cgrey8 stated, they can be a pain to bolt down. They do set the engine in the best possible spot as low and as far back as possible without putting it into the firewall.

[Blk87]

Ok thanks guys. i got tired of fooling around with what i have and wasting time. I'm gonna mock this whole thing up, pull the motor then pull the cab off to do some chassis work. thanks for the help. They are to arrive on 3/5. Ill keep you updated.........

[Dave]

Just caught this post. Lot of people on other sites recomend using the mid 80's Mustang conv. mounts. Not a drop in but cheaper, have to move things around depending on swap for clearance. Explorer mounts are just as much work, the two wheel and four wheel Explorers have the exact same front suspension, frames different Ranger.
Dave

[v8ranger]

I used my stock V6 mounts and have never had a problem... Just made the flat plate and can put the motor as far up or as far back as you want... My V6 mounts are still the ones that where put in it in 86..

[MalcolmV8]

My first swap I used the L&L mounts but wasn't impressed that I still had to drill holes as it didn't line up on my 92 frame. Next swap I just used stock Explorer mounts and lowered the motor into place. Once I had the right spot I just took some metal flat stock around 3/16" I think it was and welded a mini bracket to go between the frame and motor mount. Cheap, easy, and I had the reliability of the stock Explorer mounts.