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As the swap of the stock Explorer 302 with the 331 approaches, I also want to take the chance to get the steering box replaced while there's no engine in the way to act as any kind of obstruction. Given that. I have some questions:

• How difficult are these things to replace?
• Anything I should be aware of about getting them installed?
• Are there any tips or tricks with getting the arm off the box or does it just come right off after the bolt has been removed?
• Any tricks or complications with getting the steering column off?
• Is there any special alignment I need to be aware of or check when I bolt everything back together?

Just eyeballing everything, it looks like it's just loosing bolts and hoses, removing stuff, replacing the box, and put everything back on. But before I go assuming it is that simple, I just thought I'd ask. It'd be a lot more difficult to correct the problem AFTER the new engine is in than to just do it right the 1st time.

It's very simple, no tricks. I replaced mine when it blew out the bottom seal.
I replaced it with a used one, replaced the pitman arm, too.

No freakin way could I get my stock pitman arm off. The puller just laughed at me. Your results may vary.
The pitman arm is keyed, though, so you can't put it on wrong.
And... the box is the same as an F series if you're shopping around.

That's the kind of info I was hoping for! I'll also get the pitman at the same time just in case mine is seized onto the box too. I'd rather have parts I don't need and have to return than have to make a special trip all over God's creation looking for a part I could've had in hand if I'd just known.

It's very simple Chris, with all you have done this will be a walk in the park. The boy's pitman arm came off pretty easy, we had no problems when we went from P/S to manual then back to P/S. It was like hitting the easy button for us.

Great. I just looked at what AutoZone's price for pitmans is as they evidently aren't in high demand. $98 for a piece of cast iron that looks like didn't cost Ford more than $3 if that. For that price, I'd be quite motivated to get that pitman arm off using a puller, press, large hammer, etc.

Also I noticed that the hose routing between my 89 and 97 Ranger is different for the return hose. The 97 has a much flatter routing. I'm considering "upgrading" to that style as well while I'm at it. Although there's no clearance issue right now anyway.

Is there any chance that the reason his pitman was difficult to come off is because he's up north where the parts were more than likely exposed to road salt more than a few times? If so I may be in luck because my truck has rarely, if ever, dealt with that. The undercarriage, frame, and body panels are all in great shape. And even before the V8 swap, the old PS pump leaked like crazy for YEARS. So the frame and components on that side of the truck look absolutely pristine, albeit oily. The new PS pump no longer leaks, but shortly after the swap, the box started leaking. So I only had about a year after the swap where my truck didn't drip oily leavings everywhere I parked. I'm hoping to get a few years after this engine swap.

It's very possible that mine was corroded. I was able to get the arm to move, but the tools were going to break first.

And when my box went, there was no leak- just a torrent of fluid! Fortunately, it occurred as I pulled into my friend's shop!

I'm sure that had a lot to do with it. You could always start soaking the thing with penetrating oil like a week before you know your gonna do the job, just give her a shot everyday. Just a thought

The bottom of the gearbox has been saturated in trans fluid for months and months now. And I think it is leaking out of the seal right above the pitman. Not that trans fluid is that penetrating, but I'm hoping I got that working for me. If anything, the oil coverage is protecting the metal from corrosion. But I'll be sure to spray it with some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or whatever...maybe even hit it with some penetrating Teflon spray.

Like others said no tricks. Basic stuff. I recall fighting the pitman arm but eventually got it off. We have salty winters here with snow so probably didn't help mine either.

Well, the old engine's out, new engine's outfitted with all the stuff from the old and for all practical purposes is ready to be put in. But I can't get the bit nut off the bottom of the steering box. I have a set of CV joint impact sockets and the closest size that fits it is 32mm, however it doesn't go down all the way over the nut. And with the engine out, the I-beam is right in the way so I can't get the impact wrench directly on the nut without an extension. It ain't breaking loose. So I gotta figure a different strategy to get that bottom nut off. Any ideas?

BTW, does anybody know what size bolt that is on the end? If I can get a big long box wrench, maybe I can break it loose with sheer leverage. The largest wrench I have is 1-1/8" and it's bigger than that. The closest calculation to 32mm in inches is 1-1/4". Can anybody confirm that's the size wrench I need?

The nut holding the pitman arm? Any bits of cotter pin left?
I don't remember the size, but it must have been common.

The nut holding the pitman onto the steering box. I didn't see a cotter pin on the bolt. It's just a big bolt. There's a cotter pin on the bolt that holds the pitman to the drag link, but that's a much smaller bolt.

Chris
I replaced the steering box on a 91 F150 a few months ago and the pitman arm was a pain to get off.
I tightened the puller and use hammer end of shaft and it finally did come off. If I remember correctly it is a taper fit.

I haven't even gotten to that point. I'm having trouble getting the nut off the shaft holding the pitman. But it's good to know that getting the nut off is only 1/2 the battle. I guess I'll plan on removing the pitman from the drag link and pulling the steering box with the pitman still attached. Maybe then I can get the impact wrench to get the nut off since I'll be able to put the impact socket directly on the wrench (no extension to absorb some of the blow). And getting the pitman off the box may be easier this way too. And yes, if the puller can't get it off by itself, strikes with a hammer is what I'd try next to see if the puller load along with the shock of a mallet will get them to let go.

This is sounding more like the PITA I was expecting it to be...not really a walk in the park. It probably should be a walk in the park (3 bolts on the frame, steering bolt, & pitman bolt), but it doesn't sound like it ever is really that simple.