v8 swap

[tking]

i have a 94 mazda b3000 with a 3.0 2wd and a 5.0 and 4r70w out of a 97 ford explore what all do i need to do the swap?
thanks

[fordmike]

i have a 94 mazda b3000 with a 3.0 2wd and a 5.0 and 4r70w out of a 97 ford explore what all do i need to do the swap?
thanks

Time and money to get started with.
I did a 94 Ranger with a 4R70W and using that trans was alot of extra work.
I ran a 89 Mustang computer and wiring harness and the Baumann TCS to run the 4R70W trans
and it was alot of work. If I were in your shoes I would run this harness http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=4
to make it alot easier and then run a non-computer type trans like a AOD or T5 as life would be alot better.

I am building a 83 now with a carb and a T5 to make things alot easier now.

[cgrey8]

If this were 5 years ago, I'd say going the 89-93 Mustang EEC and Baumann controller would be the way to go. However today, there's far better support for the stock Explorer EEC. I'd run the stock engine, trans, wiring harness, and EEC if at all possible. Some things in the tune would need to be disabled, but for the most part, the 97 Explorer EEC shouldn't be so new that you can't get done everything you need to do for a 94 swap.

Now the question is whether you'll do the tuning or if you will turn that over to someone else. If you will do the tuning, then keep in mind these are the things I would recommend you get:

• $350 Moates Quarterhorse datalogger
• $130 BinaryEditor/EEC Analyzer combo software
• $200 An Explorer EEC def file for sale by Adam at POPSRACING. PM him at POPSRACING on the EECtuning.org forum for details.
• $200 Innovate LC-1 Wideband Controller and Sensor
• And if you don't have a laptop already, you'll need one. Any new laptop in the $400-600 will work just fine

It's an investment to do DIY tuning, but if you are into that sort of thing, you can get a lot of satisfaction out of doing it. But if you are a person that's more interested in driving the vehicle than playing on the laptop, then you are probably better off taking it to someone to get it tuned. And if you are going to get the thing tuned, you might as well do some mods to the engine like ditching the stock Explorer cam for starters.

[tking]

will the stock explorer oil pan work and what raddiator will work and drive shaft

[cgrey8]

I don't know that anybody has tried the Explorer oil pan on a 2wd Ranger. But because dual sump pans are easy to come by, people just avoid the potential problem and replace them.

As for Radiator, use a stock 2-core radiator. It seems you can find them for much less than $200, but that's what I paid at AutoZone. Rangers typically come with a 1-core, the 2-core is an upgrade. They do sell them, but you have to make sure you get the desk-jockey running the computer to choose the right option on the computer to get the 2-core PN and price to come up. There are pics here on the forum in a couple of different threads showing the thickness difference between 1-core and 2-core stock units. And being it's a stock unit, it'll bolt right in, no problem.

However I will say this, the 2-core is just barely oversized enough that you can't run the Explorer mechanical fan although there is enough room to run the mechanical fan if you run a 1-core. So keep in mind that if you go 2-core, you'll likely need electric pusher fans or possibly a puller fan on the backside of the radiator. A number of us went the route of pushers and that's worked out just fine for me. My original fans are still doing what they do. I also have a DC Variable Speed Drive (VSD) which ramps the fan speed on and off vs a bang-bang temperature switch. I would assume that the VSD has helped extend the life of the fans. But fans have been designed for years to deal with ON/OFF usage. I think a lot of people use Taurus electric fans from junkyards too...

[fordmike]

will the stock explorer oil pan work and what raddiator will work and drive shaft

I have heard from a few that a stamped steel Explorer oil pan will work.
Stay away from the cast aluminum Explorer pan as it does not work.
In my 94 I used a 97 Ranger 4.0l radiator with the HD cooling and I think
that it is a 3 row as it is thick. Here is a couple of pics of mine and what I
did to make it fit very nice.

[v8ranger]

Is there that much more room in the newer Rangers to be able to use a thicker radiator, and in the stock location???? There was no way I could use a stock radiator in the stock location in my 86.... I had to tuck it up under the core support with a custom made radiator and used two low profile electric fans....

[cgrey8]

That's probably because you aren't using L&L mounts or Explorer front accessories. This is how much clearance I have using those even with a 2-core radiator in the stock location. With a 1-core, I would've had enough clearance to run the Explorer mechanical fan, no problem.

Click the picture to see more detail.

From your pics, it appears you have yours tucked with a puller fan setup. As for if the newer engine bays have more room, they do side-to-side on the passenger side thanks to a redesign of the AC Box. But I don't think there's much difference on the driver's side. Although the DS didn't have clearance issues with anything anyway at least not with the oil filter relocation adapter.

[Chris]

If this were 5 years ago, I'd say going the 89-93 Mustang EEC and Baumann controller would be the way to go. However today, there's far better support for the stock Explorer EEC. I'd run the stock engine, trans, wiring harness, and EEC if at all possible. Some things in the tune would need to be disabled, but for the most part, the 97 Explorer EEC shouldn't be so new that you can't get done everything you need to do for a 94 swap.

Now the question is whether you'll do the tuning or if you will turn that over to someone else. If you will do the tuning, then keep in mind these are the things I would recommend you get:

• $350 Moates Quarterhorse datalogger
• $130 BinaryEditor/EEC Analyzer combo software
• $200 An Explorer EEC def file for sale by Adam at POPSRACING. PM him at POPSRACING on the EECtuning.org forum for details.
• $200 Innovate LC-1 Wideband Controller and Sensor
• And if you don't have a laptop already, you'll need one. Any new laptop in the $400-600 will work just fine

It's an investment to do DIY tuning, but if you are into that sort of thing, you can get a lot of satisfaction out of doing it. But if you are a person that's more interested in driving the vehicle than playing on the laptop, then you are probably better off taking it to someone to get it tuned. And if you are going to get the thing tuned, you might as well do some mods to the engine like ditching the stock Explorer cam for starters.

Thats exactly what I'm doing with mine. I got my engine and 4R70W from a 96 F150 and am using the stock F150 PCM from the same truck. At the moment, I do not have the time to learn how or to tune it myself. I contacted the guys at Stang-Hi Performance in Baton Rouge, they wrote and emailed me a "starter tune." This will allow me to start the truck and drive it to prove out my work. I will then bring it to them, they will strap it to the dyno and write the final tune.

[v8ranger]

That's probably because you aren't using L&L mounts or Explorer front accessories. .

I used the stock V6 mounts and made the flat plates....... The front engine accessories are off a Ford, Crown Victoria. Except the alternator, That's a 1 wire GM.. lol... The newer Ranger's must be a couple inches longer in the front.. My engine sits as far back as it can sit. Its a finger width between the fire wall and the valve cover...

[cgrey8]

That's possible. But the L&Ls do sit the engine low and pretty far back. There's probably another 1/2 it could go back, but it seems perfect right where it is. And I was one of the lucky ones that the mounts bolted right down to the crossmember. They were bolt-in as advertised although it seems the bolt pattern on the crossmembers changed as early as 92 because Malcolm's mounts didn't line up with any holes in his crossmember forcing him to have to drill.

But the front dress of the Explorer is the most compressed of all the Windsor accessory setups. And I believe the Crown Vic setup is one of the longest. So the engine bays may be the same length, and all your clearance is just being eaten up by the front-dress.