Need advice, hydrolic clutch problems

[carvinmark]

I just put it back together, when I got the truck the previous owner said he drove it daily till he blew the motor and from what I see, it does look as if all these pieces were working properly for him. My Ranger has what I think is the OE clutch master cylinder and possably OE slave cylinder that is custom mounted to a piece of 1/4" thick metal and then bolted to the outside of the bellhousing with a plunger that is supposed to actuate the clutch fork. Something is not working cause I have not got enough movement to move the fork. This is not a pressure plate or disc problem, all new parts there. I have very little knowledge about these non linckage clutch set ups so I'm kind of lost as to what do I do next to diagnose? The pedal feels like it is trying but I have no use of the clutch. Also, is there a conversion to use a cable or linkage avaliable?
I want to drive this thing before it starts snowing here!

[cgrey8]

The setup sounds right, although you may have air in the lines. Are you sure it is completely bled of all bubbles?

Also I had trouble with my clutch setup pushing the fork far enough. I was getting movement, it was just getting about 1/8" shy of completely disengaging the clutch well enough for me to put the transmission into gear. So get a 2nd person (or a video camera) to verify that if you do or don't have movement on the fork when the pedal is pushed. If you do have movement, you just aren't pushing out quite far enough, you may need to preload the fork with about 1/8-1/4" worth of pressure. Read more here:
It runs, but the clutch doesn't completely disengage

There are 3 pages of discussion there. Pics of my final setup are on the 3rd page. That setup has been working flawlessly since I got the setup you see and I drive my truck to work every day. So if it was going to have issues, I expect they would've surfaced by now.

[carvinmark]

cgrey8, Thanks, I just read the whole post, man you went thru some hoops trying to find a master cylinder. Mine has the threaded rod and is way inside the slave, on the other end is a pair of nuts and what looks like a rocker fulcrum but no spring was on it when I pulled it apart. sounds like a good day of bleeding and pre loading the clutch fork and I may get it. Must say, I'm not happy about the through out bearing riding on the pressure plate, seems wrong but if it works, cool. Had to put the truck out in the rain to do a little work on the stang so I may not get to play Ranger with the for a short while. I will try to snap some pics of my slave next time it's in my shop. At least I have some real time knowledge helping me, thanks again.

[cgrey8]

I re-read over that thread and wow that seems like such a long time ago now. I also realized I ended that thread with the possibility that I would have to readjust the bolt as the clutch wore. While that may be true, this coming up January will be 5 years and 53kmiles of daily-driver (Atlanta driving) use, and I haven't had to make an adjustment yet...nor has the throw-out bearing shown any audible hint of a problem related to being preloaded.

[Dave]

Mark,
Got a Mustang shop manual, it shows the amount that the TB should engage into the fingers on the clutch. Think Ford thinks it's easier on the bearing to be in constant contact than going from rest to 5000+ rpms. Lots of the people on Mustangs aren't aware of it either. There was a good YouTube showing the prober adjustment in a Monster Mazda, same trans and set-up used in the Ranger. Had it saved I thought. Usually need about 1 1/4-1 3/8" of travel at the clutch lever for good operation.
35 degs here and thunder storms, heading your way!
Dave

[carvinmark]

cgrey8, that's great to hear!
Dave, I guess I never thought of it from that point, but winding up the bearing like that has to shock the heck out of it. If you locate that video, please let me know. You can keep the storm,lol, We are supposed to get snow from it don't think mine will do any good in the white stuff. Oh well, probably better make sure the snowmobiles are ready.

[Teddyzee]

Yes, lots of preload on mine, too.

[87sc302]

I am using the 280z slave and once the preload was set it has been perfect for over 4 years and many miles

[Dave]

Mark,
Know I have a lot of the different set-ups stored away but did find this info from another search eariler this year on pre-load.
Dave
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vinta ... eload.html
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vinta ... stion.html

Edit: Found a bunch more that may duplicates from this site,

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1712&p=14262&hilit= ... lic#p14262

My truck was stock 5 speed and I prefer having a manual. So keeping it a 5 speed with a T5 was a no brainer. I never even considered an automatic and I haven't regretted that decision once. The effort of getting the tranny to work with the stock equipment was just a matter of making a plate for an 83-84 Ranger external slave cylinder to work with the stock clutch master and hydraulic line.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1545&hilit=hydraulic

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1393&hilit=+hydraulic

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1256&p=10524&hilit= ... lic#p10524

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=250266

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

Master

Installed the 88 mc and a new 280 slave, benchbled it and installed and it worked great! Only had to preload a rotation or two on the nut from zero lash. Soooooooo much easier and less headaches to just pull the sytem out and bench bleed it.
To swap to the 88 mc I had to use a cutoff wheel to remoce the square hole the old mc locked into. I then made a cardboard template of the moutning flange to drill the two mounting holes. Everything else bolted right up.
Thanks guys!
Oreilly part number CMA39896
Ddvance part number 39896

NAPA United 37497 at NAPA $18

[v8ranger]

If you put a new pressure plate and clutch in, maybe the master or slave is week and its not strong enough to work the new parts... Maybe... I used my stock master ( 86 ), slave for an 84, I think. The one that has the 2 bolt flange. I didnt have to use a threaded rod and mine is fine. I had mine as a cable at first. Trust me, you dont want that. Very stiff...

[carvinmark]

Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I don't want to go with a cable set up. The clutch is a 10 1/2" replacement rated for 330-340 horse I think, so it should be pretty close to an OE unit, as far as stiffness goes. I just need to try to bleed it and adjust the preload and see if it will work. A friend of mine was a Ford mechanic and he said he will come and help, says the same as you guys, just need patience bleeding it. My fingers are crossed! Should be back working on it next week if I can wait that long.