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Grumpy wrote:making some progress.... got the engine installed last night .... L&L mounts worked great and the oil filter adapter clears too ... got like 3 inches between the front of the water pump to the radiator so no clearance probs so far ...got to take my headers and get them sand blasted and painted in the next couple days ....

here are a couple updated pix ....

https://picasaweb.google.com/1014602644 ... 9973/Pix02#

How do you like the L&L mounts, worth the price??

yup... i like them... direct bolt in and very good quality made too 1!!! WELL worth the price to me !!

Alright thanks, I'm looking to do one my self by years end/ new year..

well if ya need a hand on parts... i bought all mine... had to make a few things but most of it i got new... an got a few thigs and ALOT of help here with these guys... they are GREAT !!!!!

do not hesitate to ask anything to anyone ....

Cool thanks, and I will..

UPDATE.....

ran into a small prob that turned into a big problem.....
i FAILED to check some clearances when i put my engine and all in and now you can turn it to the full lock position to the left.......... but cant turn it but 1/2 a round to the right .... the drag link is hittin the front bottom on the oil pan .....so i got to pull it all out and redo it now....... its a bitch ...........

so if you doin the swap..... always check the clearances on everything b4 bolting it all down and moving forward.............lmao

here are some updated pic of the headers in stalled.... just the drivers side for now ... there are 7 new ones.....

https://picasaweb.google.com/1014602644 ... 9973/Pix02

That header looks nice and clean. Did you need to modify the oil pan for the steering issue you had before?

nope...... didnt have to modify anything at all......... so far ......lol

https://picasaweb.google.com/1014602644 ... 9973/Pix02

added 5 new pix... heater box mod ... inside and out....

and to whoever it was that said use heat to soften the box then use a pipe or something round to indent it .... uuuuum......... i tried that... it DIDNT work.. the plastic stuck to the pipe and really messed up the 1st one... so i got my spare one and just cut it up and then cut up the one that melted and used part of it to "patch" this one and went from there ... and as you can SEE.... i CAN NOT fiberglass worth a dam... but i did as good as i could for a first timer... it dont look pretty.. but hey.. it held so i think i did ok for the 1st time EVER doing fiberglass .....lol

im gettin there... slowly .. but at least im gettin there...lol

ill keep posting updates as i go and get things done.... ill get some GOOD pix of the engine mounts and the tranny mount so ya can see what i had to do to get it all to line up and clear everything... with NO cutting.... oh.. i also got my clutch slave on and bolted down... its not completely connected.... but its CLOSE .... them pix are on there also ... it looks like its hitting the trans tunnel.... but it really isnt... its got like 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance..and if you look closely you can see how well the headers clear also .. i dont have the collectors slipped or bolted onto the tubes yet... but they will clear really well.. pass side has plenty of clearance also ... will get more pix soon as it stops raining an and dries up some....
i do have one small prob .. my factory fuel line location... well they DO touch the headers so i got to find something to make them clear ... im thinkin maybe Explorer fuel lines from the fuel filter forward ??? any one got pix of what they had to do to get their lines to clear the headers and everything else ???? im using the intake and fuel rail and the flex lines at the back of the intake to the factory lines on the left side of the engine compartment... under the steering shaft and the clutch master cylinder ....down by the Anti-lock braking mechanism mounted in the frame rail ... ill try to get a pic of it in the next day or so ...but i think i might need some help on this part of the fab and conversion .... thanks .....but in the clutch slave pix... you can see where im talking about ... its right there with the "red" thing inside the rail ....

Yea, heating and bending the A/C box didn't work for me either. I cut and used some sheet metal and silicone to seal it.

some ppl are telling me that the link to my pix dont work .. so i put them on photobucket too .....

http://s381.photobucket.com/albums/oo25 ... ?start=all

ok guys..... UPDATE................ ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!

i finally got it to fire off today...well LATE today and its to dam late to get a vid or anything .. so ill get one tomorrow....

the wiring that is in that Ford Racing wire diagram... well.... its WRONG !!!!!!!!!! so i had to pull all the covering off and trace it back myself and i found my problem.... but now i got to get my fuel pump relay and circuit wired in and working.... ya know when ya turn the key on and not start it... then fuel pump will run 3 to 5 seconds and cut off.... well.... mine dont do that and it floods the engine out... so i GOT to figure a way around that also ... other then that... i got a few vacuum leaks and a couple exhaust leaks and a sticking starter solenoid but... all in all... its all working GREAT !!!!
tomorrow ill start on the cooling system and get that done and in and then all ill need to do is get a drive shaft cut and rewelded ($85) .... and get my mufflers put on ... and do a few small odd an ends.. then i can set it back on the ground on all 4's an take it for a spin.... i hope !!!!!

uploaded a video of what it sounds like... its so loud that it distorts the mic in my phone... you you can hear it .... man its MUSIC to my ears too !!!!!!!!
i got a couple vacuum leaks to sort out ... and the cooling system and the fuel relay and cut off .. it wants to continuously run when i turn the key on... instead of run for a a few seconds then quit till its started ... but that is just a stepping stone ....

hear it here ................. http://s381.photobucket.com/albums/oo252/Grumpy_1/