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What's the negative or downside to flux core?

And yes, I was intending to get a 220v whatever I got for those same reasons. And I have space in the fusebox to run it, so why not?

Something like this link will explain it a lot better than me. My biggest complaint with flux core is cleaning up the splatter and weld after wards. There's a lot more to it though. Read this.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledg ... xcored.asp

Good read...thanks.

Well, I revisited the stud and in short, it's out. But I don't think it had a thing to do with the penetrant, or at least very little. What I did was got a file and flattened two sides parallel for the vise grips to grab. But the vise grips just started rounding those off because they just weren't strong enough to not flex. So I took a different approach. I got an adjustable wrench and clamped down on the jaws of the vise grips and turned the stud out that way. The support from the wrench prevented the jaws from flexing side-to-side so it held tight and the stud moved. After working it back and forth a bit, it freed up and came right out. Looking at the threads after it was out, they were completely dry so the penetrant didn't make it nearly as far down as the crud was that was holding the bolt.

Awesome, glad the file and wrench option worked for you. I've used that a few times myself.

Penetrating lube doesn't always make it down which is why I always follow up with heat from a torch which works wonders. I've personally found PB Blaster to work best at penetrating down into rust and crud which is why I recommend it. It smells very strong of chemicals though so be sure not to breath it.

I got the RRs this afternoon. They look absolutely brand new. I can't tell that they've been run at all. The one thing I did think that was odd is they are hefty. I figured for aluminum parts, they'd be lighter. I haven't taken the stamped steel rockers off to see if they are heavier or lighter. But otherwise I'm happy with them. I think they'll work out great.

The new ones are going to be quite a bit heaver. Bet they are forged aluminum, have the steel roller bearing assembly where it pivots. You were going to check for V.C. clearance?
Dave

That's next. I need to take off a few of the stock rockers, roll the engine over a few times and see if the valve cover "pops up" while just sitting on the engine. If it does, then I have clearance issues. If it doesn't, then I should be fine.

BTW, the Explorer valve covers don't appear to have any baffling. They are just stamped steel covers. The only baffle in them is right over the oil inlet, but it is at the same height as the rest of the cover. The passenger side cover on Explorers rises right at the oil inlet. That's right where the baffle is, but like I said, it's at the same height as the rest of the cover.

Chris, just went out and looked at the one's that came off my crate motor, only five mins run time on them, nice and clean. Ran a straight edge to that baffle on the front and it does hang down about 1/8". CJ said that was the only place he had interference. He just usesd a Dremel and made clearance. Think I mentioned that Felpro has a double thick VC gasket.
Also, I do have the complete '97' Explorer shop manual here in case. All two volumes, both about 4 1/2" thick.
Dave

Be great if you could get the RR to fit under the stock valve covers. When I did my red truck which had a 95 Mustang GT engine they didn't fit but I didn't try hard either. It was an excuse to get some nice billet aluminum covers.
The RR are a good bit thicker and stronger and weight a tad more from what I can tell but the roller tips will have very minimal friction compare to the stamped pieces.

I found a 97 Explorer balancer on eBay from a guy here local to me. I was the only bidder at $14, and I saved on shipping by picking it up. The guy works 3 miles from my office so that was quite convenient.

I also purchased a GT40p spring package to upgrade the stock springs, retainers, and locks. They should be coming in sometime next week. Even though it'll be quite a few months before I can afford the stroker kit, it's at least exciting to see parts coming in.

I'll get pics of the stock covers on the engine with the thick gaskets sometime this weekend. I don't think I'll have time this afternoon.

I just won a set of EV6 36lb LS1 injectors with the EV1 connector. I've been looking on eBay for nearly a year now for a set of either stock LS1 (ivory) 36lb or stock 03/04 Cobra (blue) 39lb injectors. There's been plenty sold, just not for the price I wanted to pay. Well a set finally came up and I bid-n-got'em for $86. The nice thing about the LS1 injectors is they are EV6s with EV1 connectors just like the Explorer 19lb injectors I have now. Thus no USCAR/EV6 to EV1 converters necessary like I'd need with the Cobra 39s.

BTW for those keeping up with what I'm building, you may think 36s are a bit oversized. In fact, 24s would be about right assuming gasoline. However I wanted large enough injectors to have the option to run E85. For the power I'm hoping to make, 32lb injectors would be sufficient, but there are no 32lb injectors on stock engines that sell frequently on eBay. The 36s and 39s are readily available. And buying new EV6 style injectors would've cost well over $250. I think Summit Racing wants $400 for them.

What are your power goals for the motor? I was under the impression you were building a very mild street motor that would be good (decent) on gas mileage? 36 lb injectors will feed a lot of power. My Cobra is making right around 600 hp at the crank (over 500 to the tires) and I'm still on the stock 39 lb injectors with some head room.

Power goals are 300-325hp. The 19lb injectors can be pushed to 300, but that's pretty much their breaking point without an FMU. But FMUs are only useful for people with boosted applications. This will be NA. So the 19s are out of the question. Like I said, 24s would handle my goals if all I wanted to do was run gasoline. However E85 requires roughly 35% more fuel than gasoline @WOT.

24lb * 1.35 = 32.4lb

So I bumped up to 36lb just because they are easier to come by.

And in order for you to be making 600hp on 39s, you are either right at the breaking point (600hp for 39s) OR your tune is boosting your fuel pressure at WOT to compensate. Since the newer EECs control fuel pressure, in principle, that's the same as what an FMU is doing. The result being the injectors you have are delivering more fuel than they otherwise would in a standard FPR-based system. But older technology that has an FPR and return line to the tank would require an FMU to make 600hp with 39s safely.

MalcolmV8 wrote:What are your power goals for the motor? I was under the impression you were building a very mild street motor that would be good (decent) on gas mileage? 36 lb injectors will feed a lot of power. My Cobra is making right around 600 hp at the crank (over 500 to the tires) and I'm still on the stock 39 lb injectors with some head room.

Surprised you are still with the 36#ers. I'm about the exact power levels (haven't gotten a dyno run yet) and have the 52# injectors and twin 60mm tb's. Roush likes to run a little bit fat on the A/F rate.
Dave