Watch closely the second video and notice that I loose traction at 80mph+ And this is only at 12 lbs of boost!!!
![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
YouTube - My Turbo V8 Ranger First Drive
YouTube - Driving my turbo v8 ranger
Moderator: MalcolmV8
Pretty good guess! It's in opa locka, south florida next to the palmettolefty wrote:Hey 302Project is that south FL. ? Looks like Hialeah or North miami . Just courious........
Nice write up!cgrey8 wrote:I was thinking E85 could probably handle 25PSI on gasoline compression. Thus you could build the engine to run that much pressure when you wanted to race it and fill it with E85. But if this was to be a frequently driven vehicle too, you could run pump gas...and of course for safety, you'd want to reset the waste gate to something much lower. And of course, you'd need a tune you could flip between when running E85, gasoline, and some mix in between (both spark and fuel demand change between the two fuels).
As for the tuning, SCT pretty much can't be beat on EEC-V stuff...at least right now. Although the Quarterhorse and the supporting tools are coming up to speed for even them. But that's going to take time. However an A9L is far better tuned on something like a Moates Quarterhorse. The SCT stuff sucks for EEC-IV because they don't have datalogging for the older EECs. And in order to so serious tuning, you need to be able to see what the EEC is doing to know how to adjust the tune. Otherwise, you are just guessing.
If your budget can swing it, I'd seriously recommend looking into getting the QH so once you get it to the dyno, they can see much more accurately what is going on and make instantaneous changes to the tune without having to shut the engine down, pull the chip, re-burn the chip, and plug the chip back to the EEC, crank the engine, wait past the "startup" period, and then retest. With the QH, you type in the new value, hit the update button, and in less than a second, the change is effective in the EEC. This makes it 100x easier and faster to dial in spark and fuel tables. The most important thing you need from the dyno is to know what spark and fuel numbers run best with your engine at WOT. Almost everything else related to driveability can be tuned without the dyno before or after going to the dyno. So what most people do is try to tune it all themselves, get everything as close as they can. Then go to the dyno for the WOT stuff. You may even wish to get it dyno tuned for both gasoline and E85 if that's the route you choose so you can get safe/optimial tunes for running both at WOT.
Of course all that does require that you already have a laptop. The interesting thing is there are people on the tuning forums that are using those little $300 net books to tune and finding they actually work 1/2 way decent. Although I personally need the big screen. The laptop is my 2nd dashboard. I occasionally glance down at it just to keep an eye on what's going on. Thus, I need the bigger screen to be able to see the numbers I'm looking for at a glance.