How to assemble a shortblock

[MalcolmV8]

OK I know I have a huge thread on my motor already and I will update it but I need some very specific help here. I've only assembled a few short blocks in my time and never before such a high performance one. It makes me nervous I get the block and parts back from the machine shop tomorrow.

For gaping the rings will something like this from Summit be good?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Also I should use a ring compressor to insert the piston and ring assemblies correctly. Something like this?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Any other tips please throw this way. Engine assembly lube on crank and rod bearings I know. I recall there been a thrust spacer on the back of the crank so I know I'll have to check that end play too. More questions as I get into it.

Thanks guys
Malcolm

[Warpig Racing]

Ring gap.. first you need to measure you rings in the cyclinders. you should measure each one at 3 different locations in the cyclinders. Basically you insert a ring not on a piston and you can use your piston to move the ringdown the cyclinder keeping it square. Use a set of feeler guages to measure the gap in the rings. If necessary, you can use that tool that summit sells or since your not doing it every day, a small fine hand file will work.

Ring compressor. Yes that one should work. Looks like a decent one. Better than the POS that comes with rebuilt kits. But for $10 more you can get the NICE ones that are not adjustable. That's the problem with them is that they are not adjustable so can only be used on that bore.

Be sure when inserting your pistons that you cover the end of the rod bolts to keep from scoring your cyclinders. Also be sure and rotate the crank to bottom each time you insert a piston. Also remember that lots of lube is a good thing. They sell that engine greese or that sticky type lube. Both really good for engine assembly. When i am building an engine, I also use large 55 gallon trash bags to cover the engine each night during the assembly process.

Also be sure and use a tap and die to clean all bolts and holes prior to assembly. This will give you a better and more uniform torque.

Also use plasti guage to check the rods and main bearings. When i assemble a performance motor, I typically assemble w/o gaskets to check for proper fitment and tolorances. then disassemble, clean and assemble with lube and torque. This may not be necessary as i dont think you are stroking it or adding stuff like girdles or anything.

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the info. I got the block and parts back tonight. I worked real late the last few days (8am till after midnight) so a little worn and haven't done anything but unload the parts from my truck into the garage. I ran some light oil on the bores and main bearing bores just to be sure nothing oxidizes and covered it up in plastic.
Will get some more info and pics up in the next few days. Time to start ordering parts to put this back together too.

[Warpig Racing]

is the block iron or alum? If its cast, if you want to spend a few hours cleaning up the casting marks, you can put a super smooth finish on the block. I spent dome time with a grinder, sander, and file and gleaned the castings off my block. Then i was able to paint and wet sand the block to give it a smooth finish.

If its alum, now is the perfect time to polish it Damn that would look nice.

[MalcolmV8]

Cast block. I won't be cleaning up anything extra or painting it. You can't even remotely see it in the engine bay. The machine shop did clean the block in their massive cleaning tank and then sprayed the outside of the block with black engine enamel paint. That's more than I would have done on the outside.
Now the supercharger and valve covers I may do something to at some point cause you can actually see those

[Warpig Racing]

I was atching some hot rit TV show a couple months ago. they said that an old trick was to paint the bottom of the intake with white engine enamle. Says it will keep the intake a couple degrees cooler.

[MalcolmV8]

Got a few things ordered today. Main studs, gasket set, piston ring filer, piston ring compressor, plastic gauge, engine assembly lube, and a few other misc things. More questions to come as I get into this

[usmcrp1044]

I was atching some hot rit TV show a couple months ago. they said that an old trick was to paint the bottom of the intake with white engine enamle. Says it will keep the intake a couple degrees cooler.

I've heard of it, I dunno if it works or not. Some people also like to paint the lifter valley with some special paint so it's smooth and oil drains over it better. I think there all kinda 'old time' things and people have always done it. If it makes a difference is doubtful.

[MalcolmV8]

They just showed the white enamel paint in the lifter valley this weekend on Hot Rod TV. Not sure I see any benefit. Only so much oil can pool up there and not run down. The oil pan has more than enough to supply for what ever can pool there.

[Warpig Racing]

Fact it that the color white reflectes heat and black absorbs the heat. my guess is it only makes a difference on a degree or 2 but that could equate to 1 or 2 HP. Even if it is only one HP, its still practically a free one.

[usmcrp1044]

There are many 'myths' about how to get free horsepower.
I dont remember where I found it, but building an engine on a bench and not on a stand was a difference between like 5-10hp.

The reason is because the block is not being twisted at all because it is only held in the back by a stand. Everything goes together straighter and supposedly makes everything stay true. Makes sense... I guess.

[plowboy34]

I use the ring compressor W80574, it's like $11, I have assembled everything from a 289 to a 460 big daddy with it. I have had it for years with no problems, It is adjustable and just snaps into place once you have it set. You don't have to tighten a screw or bolt or anything eveytime you go to next piston, you just snap lever over and it's good to go. Just my opinion.

[plowboy34]

If I have the block hot tanked I alway's run a tap in all bolt holes. That hot tank solution can leave things behind that causes problems with bolts, It doesn't take very long and it sure saves a lot of headaches.

[MalcolmV8]

Already got a ring compressor but thanks for the info plowboy. I have taps laying around, while I'm waiting on parts I'll dig up the right sizes and chase the threads. Thanks for the tip.
The machine shop told me to use molly lube on the main studs and head studs to achieve accurate torque readings too.

Later
Malcolm
Pouring with rain in KC for a while now - no lost down time on the car

[plowboy34]

Absolutely lube the studs and bolts, all of them. Any kind of lube is better than just dry, plain ole engine oil will even do wonders.