How to assemble a shortblock

[cgrey8]

Sounds to me like you don't need torque plates. The only thing that makes me think that is the fact that it's the same at the very top as well as the very bottom. As already disucssed, I can't imagine torque plates will have much affect at the bottom of the bore. So if you have the same gap at the top as the bottom, I'd say you are good.

I'm curious to hear what others say.

[MalcolmV8]

OK I repeated the whole procedure from cleaning to ring size checking on cylinder #7 and this time I got different results. The machine shop told me torque plates actually open up the top of the cylinder but maybe that's just a general rule because I got different results.
At the very top of the cylinder I could slide the 0.016 in and the 0.017 could barely start to get in. About an inch and a half down or so the 0.014 slid in fine and the 0.015 got in about 3/4 of the way. Just like cylinder #5 was all the way. The rest of the way down cylinder #7 was consistent with what I got about an inch and a half down.
I found if I just pushed the ring down the depth of the piston I'm good. That appears to be all I need to do in order to gap rings with out torque plates.

[MalcolmV8]

Oh for those interested this is what I got from the machine shop.

[Dave]

Looking good, sounding good! Word of caution, how long has it been since you have driven it? Might need a refresher course in power management. I guess with your careful break-in period, you'll learn to respect it all over again. I finally got mine out, the extra 260 hp from what I had been driving all winter sure wakes you up!
Good luck, Frost tonight here!
Dave

[MalcolmV8]

Yeah I was realizing that the other night. I jumped on the gas in my blue truck and it actually felt kinda fast and fun lol. Normally it feels like a complete dog and I get very frustrated driving it compare to my Cobra. Amazing what you get used to.

[MalcolmV8]

OK I finally got a moment to tonight to get some work done on this block. First thing I did was put the crank in and check clearance and I got 0.002 which is what my machine shop said it would be.
The part that confuses me is crankshaft end play. The workshop manual shows to have all the main bearing caps torqued down and then check. Well when they're all installed the crank is pinched down to hard to move. How are you supposed to check end play?
So I removed the main bearing caps except for the #5 which is the one at the very rear of the motor with the thick lower main bearing that goes over the edge of the lower bearing cap setting end play. I also had the thrust washer in place which goes along side the upper #5 main bearing (rear of motor).

I got 0.008 inches which is 0.2032 millimeters. Workshop manual says it should be 0.130-0.301 mm so I'm right in range providing I'm measuring it correctly??

[MalcolmV8]

The thrust washer I grinded down to get the end play I needed.

Been gaping rings. Here's the ring filer I got.

Here's one of the new pistons I used to push the rings down square in the bore.

Here's the piston upside down. That's as far down as I pushed the rings. Top rings are gaped at 0.020 and second groove rings are at 0.013 ~ 0.014.

OK here's the part that confuses me. The oil rings. It's like a puzzle and put them together. The spec sheet says the oil ring rail needs 0.015 end gap min. I assume that's the center wafer looking part? I checked one in a cylinder and it butts up snug with no end play. Do I grind it down just like a compression ring? They are very hard to check end gap because they don't hold tight in the cylinder like a compression ring. They just try and fall.

[MalcolmV8]

OK I figured out the oil rings. The outer rails are more than wide enough and it's ok that the center wafer part is butt'd up.

[MalcolmV8]

Finally it feels like progress. After all the test fits checking clearances etc. I got the crank installed for the final time. Got some assembly lube on there and put it all together.
For those side spacers you have to turn out of the main caps I went to the local tool store and they had a long allen wrench on a socket for $15. So I purchased just a plain extra long 8 mm allen wrench and cut off the end and put it in a socket. Total cost $1.97. That way I could get a torque wrench on and torque them in stages 44 in/lb and then 89 in/lb before installing the side bolts which went to 15 ft/lbs.

Worked out great

My rings are all filed and ready to go so hopefully tonight if I get some time I can get the rings on the pistons and get them on the rods and into the block.

[MalcolmV8]

Been slacking on updates here. Short block portion is done. All pistons are in the block. A few pics

Notice the black rod bearings. They have some sort of coating on them. I forget exactly what it does, resist wear or something? dunno now. Machine shop talked me into them.

Now this I thought was interesting. Diamond pistons take this circular key ring looking things on the side of the pistons to hold the gudgeon pin in place. Two on each side of the piston. All motors I've rebuilt in the past always just used a regular cir clip. Must be an aftermarket thing.

[MalcolmV8]

Well head studs came in today along with many other goodies. I have gaskets, orings and all sorts of things. Assembly should move along pretty quick now.
Machine shop told me to get this spray and to spray it inbetween the different layers of the multi layer metal head gasket. Anyone else ever do that? or have some comments, feedback etc. on that?

[Warpig Racing]

I use the copper spary on all critical gaskets (mainly head). Just spray it on in a couple thin coats (similar to spray painting). Let it dry and install. they say it helps seal as well as better heat transfer. Some migit car racers that i know just use a metalic spray paint Like silver because it does the same job and cost less.

The block is looking good. Need to get it up and going.

[MalcolmV8]

My gasket set had an extra head gasket inside. Notice three head gaskets.

Got oil pump and pickup as well as windage tray installed.

Head studs in place.

A shot of the heads

It still amazes me how big these darn heads are

Both heads on finally.

It's starting to look like an engine again!!

[MalcolmV8]

Next up timing chains. You have to compress the tensioners and release the ratchet piece with a screw driver so that outer piece will go down.

Once fully compressed you insert something small, like this 1/16 drill bit, into that hole at the bottom which keeps it compressed.

Timing chains installed.

Timing chain cover installed

OK next was balancer install. What a PITA. I struggled and could not keep that crank from turning for anything. I put two of the flywheel bolts in the back of the crank and put wrenches on them and turned the crank till they jammed up on the engine stand. That was not nearly enough. Finally after much frustration I grabbed some square tubing and made this.

A close up of the end.

Bolted up to the flywheel.

I made the bar long enough to lock up against the floor. Worked like a charm You'd be surprised at how much force it took to turn that bolt an extra 90 degrees beyond torque value.

A lot more stuff on the motor

And the blower even

[Warpig Racing]

Looking good.. I would almost rather look at that than a hot naked girl. I would much rather listen to that than a hot naked girl. HAHA.