351W Twin Turbo Ranger, New pics March 11/07

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:18 pm

Nice job indeed. I'm still waiting on my ebay stuff to sell so I've started work on the twin turbo install. Tonight I got my drivers side pipe cut-fit-tack welded in place. I'll cut out some turbo flanges at work tommorow and try to get both turbo's mounted this weekend on the headers. The I can start on the drain pipes and oil feed lines....I can work on this and the cab interior/firewall for a bit as I already have the stuff here. I re-listed my ebay stuff again, not one friggin auction had a bid. I didn't think my prices were out to lunch but apparently they were...

....As soon as that stuff sells I'll get into the 1/2 back job.

walkinwounded · Post by **walkinwounded** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:01 pm

Hey it almost looks like a GM piece of garbage rear end,that they have used from the early years.Just wodering if you are plannig on doing the front frame as well why not make a jig and make a complete frame now,that way no greif later plus if you do it right there will be no worry's of weakness in the other areas of the frame that have rusted through.You could make a nice frame lighter but stronger ,and hell you are just goin to race it on the track anyways not on the street so why not.Hope you are not offended but you are going to do the work twice when you could do it all once...walkinwounded

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:48 am

Money is the reason, if I do the front now I have to buy all the front suspension parts now. If this thing runs hard with just a half back then the front end may be left stock. I'm only going to change it if traction is an issue.

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:15 pm

I'm now the proud owner of half a Ranger....LOL....

...I fabbed up my drop crossmember at the stock frame, welded it in and cut off the old frame today. I still need to add a couple more beads of weld in the top edges of the CM to the stock frame and make the driveshaft loop and box the ends of the stock frame. You'll notice that the drop is 1" off center to the right - the reason for this is the fact that the engine sits in it's crossmember offset this amount - just the way the factory CM was made.

Ontariov8 · Post by **Ontariov8** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:28 am

sweet man you're making good progress and thats just gonna flat out rock man when she is all said and done

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:24 am

I hope your right.

Ontariov8 · Post by **Ontariov8** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:33 pm

if you take you're time while doing it man and make sure you're doing it right it will flat out rock when all said and done just might not be the 1st time out as you have to work the bugs out of it but i'm sure you will get it to go good man

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:57 pm

I got my freebie 27x13x15 slicks today, gonna look killer under that thing. Looks like a 20" frame width is gonna be the ticket to fitting these things under the box. I finished welding/boxing the frame today, put my 4 link gear together and prepped my 4 link brackets to go on the rearend. As luck would have it - the guy who gave me the slicks is also a tech inspector at my local strip - I picked his brain for a while and got lots of good info.

plowboy34 · Post by **plowboy34** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:30 pm

I just love the look of a Hot Rod that's been tubbed and a huge set of meats under it. All nice and neatley tucked in there, that's gonna look good. Your making it real hard not to start ripping the boy's truck apart...lol. He doesn't want to tub it and I do. I hate that it's his truck.....guess I'll have to build my own. Keep the pics coming on the progress, like to see how it goes together.

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:47 pm

He said with all things working as they should he thinks the truck should easily run low 10's!!!!

...And he thinks high 9's are possible too depending on the weight/traction/boost. He said if it doesn't run in the 11's from day one then something wil be majorly wrong....LOL....I hope he's right.

What was his feeling " you'll be hanging on to the steering wheel with a death grip when you bang 2nd gear"

Warpig Racing · Post by **Warpig Racing** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:08 am

BigRigTech wrote: I'm going to buy a mini spool for it this winter.

Is a mini spool enough to support a 10 sec truck? 357 w/ turbos is a lot of power. Big HP and big traction will be a lot of stress on that little spool. Breaking the spool could cause a lot of damage to the RE or worse case crashing on the big end of the track. Have you thought about a full spool? They also make lightened versions if the rotating mass is a big issue. Also, is there a reason for the 8.8 vs the 9? I assume that most guys use the 8.8 b/c it doesnt have to be narrowed for the ranger. This is not the case for your project. I am assuming that the shortened axle shafts for the 8.8 is widely available from moser and other aftermarket axle manufactures. Is there a big price difference?

BigRigTech · Post by **BigRigTech** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:57 am

I have priced full 8.8 spools, I know what your saying and after getting a good look at the slicks it's gonna have to be a full spool....More money.

.....I'm trying to avoid narrowing the axle this winter if I can - costs a lot of money to do - I built a narrowed 9" for my 63 and it cost me over $1000cdn to build with cut/resplined stock axles. This will need HD custom axles....We'll see how it goes, if I have to narrow it then I will. I know a shop that can do it in a lathe - dead straight.

I may go with a 9" if I narrow a diff - they are much easier to work on.

Warpig Racing · Post by **Warpig Racing** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 5:32 pm

Narrowing is not cheap. It may be cheaper to narrow the 9" vs the 8.8". My narrow 9 cost about $1400 from drum to drum. Included new gears, moser axles, full spool, new breaks, etc.

A 8.8 woud prolly take the abuse but the mini spool is questionable.

Ontariov8 · Post by **Ontariov8** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:49 pm

sweet those are a fat set of tires you got their man and i think you will need to narrow that rear i would go right to the 9" if i was you

walkinwounded · Post by **walkinwounded** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:34 pm

Hey have you ever find a Maverick or a mustang 2 rear they have a 8 and a 9 inch rear and they are really narrow,could save you lots of bucks ,I am sure they are still pentiful and it would be the way to go.kkkeep sending the pics it sure is looing great so far.walinwounded