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Toledo_Tommy
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New to the site

Post by Toledo_Tommy »

Hi , I'm new to the site and I recently picked up a 1993 Splash . I also am putting a 93 5.0 roller motor into this with intake , carb , E303 cam , and a c4 transmission . I have been looking at the conversion kits but I already have the headers. I read some where that I can use the explorer 5.0 mounts for this conversion. Is this true and if so which year ? If they will not work does someone have a link where I can order the correct motor mounts ?
Thanks for any and all advice ,it's very much appreciated !
Tommy
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Grumpy
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Post by Grumpy »

several of us use L&L mounts.... some made their own ......some use explorer ones........ some use the factory ones that came in the v-6 rangers..... there are MANY options on these..... but i think if you get the mounts and all out of the Explorer and the Radiator ... and computer and all.... i think it will all set in ...... but im not positive ..... Dave and Chris and Malcolm and a few more will be able to tell ya that ..... i went with L&L mounts (~ $200) ...Kaufman Headers and a L&L oil filer relocation kit .... WAS stuffing it all into a 90 ranger but then found a 96 extended cab step side... so im swapping it all over into it .... :mrgreen:
96 Ranger Extended cab - work in progress.. 5.0 out of a 90 Mustang GT..Tremec TKO-3550-2 with mid-shift conversion ..Explorer GT40 intake and fuel rails. X303 FMS cam . WP Jr alum heads . K&N air filter.lowered .Weld Drag Lites (or Weld Pro-Stars) .. a 8.8 with Auburn Pro ..Moser custom alloy street axles (31 spline) and a 3:73 gear.L&L engine mounts and oil filter adapter.Aluminum Rad from James Duff.



Peace from Oxford Miss.
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cgrey8
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Post by cgrey8 »

Most any mount of these types can be made to work. It just depends on how much work you want to put into making them work. Reusing the stock mounts whether they are stock Ranger V6/L4, stock Explorer V8, or Mustang mounts is quite possible. There's also some situation where Mustang convertable mounts work best (4x4 Rangers maybe??). I never knew convertable Mustangs and normal Mustangs had a difference in motor mounts, but they evidently do for some unknown reason.

Many have used them in their stock location and simply fabricated a flat plate to bolt to the engine and set down on top of the mounts. Although most people that do this find that this strategy locates the engine fairly high in the engine bay. So if you are going to reuse the stock mounts, consider redrilling the crossmember and relocating them further down to get the engine sitting lower.

If you have an older Ranger, the L&Ls take all the guess work out. They bolt right in with no problems. Although that's where the niceness working with them ends. In theory, you should be able to bolt the engine mounts to the engine. Bolt the brackets down to the crossmember, and drop the engine down. Line it up and push the bolts through to hold the engine pieces to the crossmember pieces. It's not that easy. I found I first had to file the engine mounts down to get them to easily drop between the crossmember mounts. Then when dropping the engine in, I found it almost impossible to get the engine tilted the exact angle needed to allow me to simply run the center bolt through. So what I had to do was loosly bolt the mount pieces to the engine and crossmember to give me plenty of slop to get the center bolt through. Once the centerbolt went through both sides, I could then proceed to tighten everything down. On the passenger side, that's a rather knuckle-busting effort getting the nuts and washers onto the bolts. Hint, slather the washers and nuts in silicone gasket so they stick. Put the washer on the bolt and make sure it sticks to the crossmember. Then stick the nut on the tip of your finger and with your other hand turn the bolt into the nut. Once it threads, then you can get a socket on the nut with U-joints and sinch it down. It's a rather cumbersome process. I honestly can't imagine redrilling the crossmember to lower stock mounts being THAT much more difficult. But have never done that, I couldn't say with 1st hand experience.
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller

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plowboy34
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Re: New to the site

Post by plowboy34 »

We did the homemade mounts on the boy's truck, they were easy and cheap and have had no problems with them at all. We run about 300 hp and no problems. We don't ground pound the truck but we do hammer on it everyonce in awhile and have a little fun. They work no problem if your building a daily driver under say 400 ponies, anything over that and you would need to chain the engine or get better mounts. If you do use this set up you will definitely want to move the crossmember mounts down the crossmember. I don't remember how far we moved them but if you don't the engine sits way to high for my taste. If you want more details let me know.

As far as a oil filter relocator I will never use anything but the L&L piece, we tried a cheaper one at first and couldn't stop leaks. We got the L&L and right when I opened box the quality is obvious, a very nice piece that is worth the money in my opinion.
Dirt is for Farming....Asphalt is for Racing

85 Ranger 5.0, GTP Engine, Carbed, AOD, 7.5 3:45 rear gear(for now)
77 Mustang II 302, C4, 8" rearend 3:00 gears, 4 point roll bar
73 Mustang Convertible, Bone Stock, 48,000 original miles
91 F-250 5.8W(really needs a 460) 4X4
2000 Mustang 3.8 V6, Bone Stock
2011 Ford Fusion (Momma's hot rod)
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