haudraulic slave kit... all in one ....

[Grumpy]

i found this just now and from what i see......... it will fit a Ranger hydraulic slave conversion .... it says its for a Mustang... but hell .... most mustang parts like this will fit a Ranger ...... and it comes with a 7/8 slave ...... just thought i would post it for anyone looking for a setup all in one package ..... they got them for TKO's and T5's .... this link should take ya right to it...... if not..... click the top box on the right side... hope this helps some of us here !! .....

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/test#4

[cgrey8]

I like that better than that other kit that used to be sold for T5s in Rangers. However the pricetag is a bit high for all the pieces.

I was able to attain the same thing as follows:

• Fab my own plate from a 6x6x1/4" hot rolled steel plate
• Using an 83-84 Ranger External slave from AutoZone
• Reuse the stock Ranger's quick-connection receptacle from the center-mounted slave in the V6 transmission & mount it on the external slave
• Few bolts, nuts, & washers to secure everything
• Drill 2 holes in the T5's bell housing to hold the plate
• Threaded push rod I made from a long carriage bolt, nuts, and washers to push the clutch fork (necessary since the slave's included rod didn't quite push the clutch far enough)

The slave was the most expensive part at ~$80. The ansulery parts and pieces were maybe $20, if that? I did already have an angle grinder and grinding wheels so if you don't have one, then that might add to your cost if you have to buy one. I like this setup since it reuses the stock master and stock hardline that runs from the master down to the slave including the quick-connect fitting.

Although others swear they can make an even cheaper setup using the 280z slave since those slaves are a fair amount cheaper than the Ranger slave I reference. What I'm not sure of is if their costs include the -an fittings, new hydraulic line, and whatever adapter is required to afix that line to the master.

[Dave]

First problem is that the '95' and newer Ranger have a master that mounts to the clutch petal bracket, not flat against the firewall. Only one like what the Rangers need is the earlier one with an angled mounting plate and modified bracket, TeddyZee has good pictures. That brings up the next question, that of matching the given dimensions of the master to that of a slave to give the correct travel at the clutch lever. A7/8" bore on the slave is too big to give proper travel needed.
Dave

[Grumpy]

Teddy .... post up some pic an dimensions on the brackets ya got ..... including the slave ???? ..... ty

[Teddyzee]

My slave bracket is a piece of angle iron holding an '83 Ranger diesel slave.

I used an '89-ish Ranger v6 7/8" bore master, bolted directly to the firewall (like the '94 and older trucks).
To do this, I just removed a chunk of the cast pedal bracket where stock clutch master clipped in place.

[Teddyzee]

Here's a thread on my clutch setup:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=250266

Swapped my master cylinder yesterday. Haven't finished bleeding it yet, I was working alone. May tackle that today.

Here's the pedal bracket that holds the stock 5/8" master cyl on the '95 and later trucks. The master slides into the square hole, then gets a quarter turn to lock in place:


Here's the stock 5/8" master on the left, with the much larger 7/8" master from an '88-'91, non 4.0 truck. You can see it has an angled flange that bolts to the firewall. (firewall strength is an issue, that's why the design changed, I believe)


The larger round end does not fit through the square hole, of course... so off it came. Looks like aluminum, cut like white metal. Super easy:


This is a shot from inside the fender well. I removed the inner fender again. The hole on the right was drilled from the inside. The line for the remote resevoir rests up against the brake booster. I used the longer line from the stock resevoir. The short one likely would have fit, as the 7/8" master has the outlet at a more direct angle to the res (not shown):


Stock 5/8" master on the left, showing the adaptor for the -3an braided line (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-6 ... view=sku):


And the finished product from inside (before the clutch pedal position sensor was re-attatched):


Hope this works!

[cgrey8]

Interesting.

[87sc302]

Here are the pictures of mine from about 6 plus years ago
I used the threaded rod with valve rocker arm fulcrum on side that actually contacts the clutch arm

Adjusted the preload once and worked great.
280Z slave was about $15 at AutoZone and if I remember a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle.

[Teddyzee]

Great idea using the rocker piece! I think I used a big washer or something...

[87sc302]

There is a nut between the rocker fulcrum ( not visible) and the slave cylinder. The spring keeps tension on clutch arm against the fulcrum..
The nut shown on the end away from the slave cylinder is just a safety it does not touch the clutch arm.