Tri y headers

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wb1
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Tri y headers

Post by wb1 »

I'm not sure what the problem is, and I'm sure its been discussed, but, here it goes. I've got a '91 with 302 and C-4. I've seen posts and pictures of the Patriot header fitting perfectly, but my right side won't. What am I doing wrong?
Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy. - Josey Wales
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MalcolmV8
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by MalcolmV8 »

Any pics of the fitment issues? Where's it not working? hitting the frame?
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wb1
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by wb1 »

On the right it is hitting the starter bulge and the frame. If I get it to fit, I'm going to have to use a rope starter on the crank! I'm thinking that I'm going to have to bend the collector toward the frame rail, and grind or cut the top flange. Frankly, I'm tired of building, and want to drive it!
Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy. - Josey Wales
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MalcolmV8
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by MalcolmV8 »

Can you use a compact starter and notch the frame a little? notching the frame is very common on these swaps.
92 302 Ranger - sold
94 302 Ranger AWD - sold
07 BMW 335xi - tuned, boost turned up, E85 - sold
04 911 TT - to many mods to list. Over 600 All Wheel HP on pump gas - sold
2015 Coyote - daily driver
03 Cobra - 2.3 TVS on a built 12:1 CR motor with ported heads, cams, long tubes etc.
MD Racing Lean Protection Module
E85

Tuned by MD Racing

https://www.youtube.com/c/MalcolmV8
plowboy34
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by plowboy34 »

by starter bulge I am presuming you mean the bulge on the bellhousing. Is this correct, if so and the headers are hitting that are these headers new or used. Tri Y headers should fit a 302 and C4 no problem. Sounds like something is bent to me. As far as hitting frame it is not uncommon to have to notch frame on passenger side.
Dirt is for Farming....Asphalt is for Racing

85 Ranger 5.0, GTP Engine, Carbed, AOD, 7.5 3:45 rear gear(for now)
77 Mustang II 302, C4, 8" rearend 3:00 gears, 4 point roll bar
73 Mustang Convertible, Bone Stock, 48,000 original miles
91 F-250 5.8W(really needs a 460) 4X4
2000 Mustang 3.8 V6, Bone Stock
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wb1
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by wb1 »

The headers are new. The right side, if you look at it from the front, angles in to the left, and to cut the bulge on the bellhousing, it would cut in too far. I'm thinking the collector needs to be bent to the right. I know the frame flange will have to be trimmed. Thank y'all for your help.
Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy. - Josey Wales
87sc302
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by 87sc302 »

I have tri y headers for 65/66 mustang from summit and they worked without any mods. I have been told if you have an AOD they will not work but should be no problem with C4.
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Dave
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by Dave »

You might have one of the large C-4 bellhousings that take the 164T flexplate. That might be the problem. The 157T housing is 5 7/8" deep while the 164T is 6 1/4" deep.
Dave
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plowboy34
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by plowboy34 »

Dave, you are so smart, I forgot about the bigger flex plate. I bet that is his problem.
Dirt is for Farming....Asphalt is for Racing

85 Ranger 5.0, GTP Engine, Carbed, AOD, 7.5 3:45 rear gear(for now)
77 Mustang II 302, C4, 8" rearend 3:00 gears, 4 point roll bar
73 Mustang Convertible, Bone Stock, 48,000 original miles
91 F-250 5.8W(really needs a 460) 4X4
2000 Mustang 3.8 V6, Bone Stock
2011 Ford Fusion (Momma's hot rod)
wb1
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Re: Tri y headers

Post by wb1 »

Dadgum. I didn't think of that. The starter looks like it was made for a 3406 Caterpillar. I'm thinkin' of just running the headers out the hood, like a puller, and being done with it! Kinda takes away from the GT look I was going for. Might be kinda loud, too.
Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy. - Josey Wales
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