Replacing Heater Core in the 97 Ranger

[cgrey8]

After sitting for a few months, I broke out the 97 Ranger just to let it run and get up to temp. After doing that, I found that the heater core is now leaking. No big surprise, but I've dreaded having to deal with it since I got the truck. From what I understand, it requires the complete removal of the dash just to get to it. There is also a driver's side air bag that I'm more than a little timid about messing with. I've got a Haynes manual for that era Ranger, but I'm interested in feedback from somebody that's actually done this job.

[MalcolmV8]

Wow that really sucks. My 94 was just bend down under the dash on the passenger's side and remove two or three bolts. It would suck if you really have to pull the whole dash. Did you check the Haynes manual and see that really is what you have to do?

[cgrey8]

Up to 94, the heater cores are a 15-30min job. Pull the hoses from the engine bay, pull the 4 screws under the dash to remove the lower cover. Slide the core backwards, and drop it straight down. New one installs in the reverse order. However the 95-up Rangers don't appear to be nearly as simple.

[JW]

Ford started mounting the heater cores near the center of the dash on the firewall in the mid-90's. It was a two day project to change it in my Expedition.

[cgrey8]

I'm finally getting around to replacing that heater core. Since I don't drive the truck more than a few miles a year, it just hasn't been a priority for the past 4-5 years. But I'm getting ready to sell it. So I need to get that heater core replaced. Looking around, I found some videos that detail the dash removal and getting down to the heater core...in an Explorer/Mountaineer. I'm hoping the procedures are the same as on a Ranger of the same dash design. They are posted on YouTube, but they aren't listed in what order they should be viewed in and the comments in the video don't help either. So I've been watching them and trying to get the links for each and put them in some sensible order. Here they are:
Tools needed for replacing the heater core
Draining the coolant
Removing the Glovebox
Removing Kickpanels Pillar Covers
Removing the stereo bezel from the dash
Removing the HVAC control assembly
Removing Instrument Panel mounting bolts
Disconnecting the AC and heater core lines
Releasing the heater core box from the firewall
Freeing of the EEC for clearance to a heater core bolt
Removing the heater core cover plate
Removal of the heater core from the housing
Reinstall the heater core back in the box
Reinstalling AC evap/blower motor

There are more reinstallation videos, but at this point, I'll assume if you can get to this point, you can return everything back together.

In these videos, he's showing that you need to pull 3 bolts from the engine bay to release the heater core box from the firewall. And apparently to do that, you need to pull the AC box to get to them...or at least that's what he's showing. My question to you guys, is it absolutely necessary to completely remove the AC evap box or is there a faster technique for getting the heater core in and out without having to remove the AC evap box from the engine bay?

[Teddyzee]

I've not replaced the heater core.
But on the truck he is working on, which is '95 or newer (like mine), the blower box is self contained, no need to remove it. Mine has been off many times for other reasons.

If anyone does remove it, there's a fourth bolt on the interior!!! I managed to rip my first box apart while forgetting that one, oops.

Anyway, you can remove the coolant hoses from the firewall (engine bay side) without touching anything else related to the AC stuff.

Here is the box removed, nothing connects to the inside (except the one vacuum connection near my green tape on the left)



I've heard that replacing the heater core on early trucks is quite straightforward. No links off the top of my head, though.

[cgrey8]

That's kind of what I suspected. That bolt from inside concerns me.

So the big question is:

• MUST I free the heater core box from the firewall to replace the heater core? If so, then that means I'll have to pull the AC Box to get at that hidden nut.
• Assuming I do, is there a way to get at that bolt WITHOUT completely removing the AC Box?

Regardless, that bolt probably won't be going back on especially if I'm selling the truck. I suspect the new owner would appreciate that if they ever have to replace the core in the future.

And of course the biggest question I have is why Ford redesigned the dash this way? It's a 20 min project replacing a core in 92-older Rangers. Why did they redesign a maintenance item like the heater core to go from being a 20 min project to being a 6-8hr project? At least AutoZone started making aluminum heater cores instead of those cheap POS soldered-together cores that go bad after about 2-3 years like the one in my 89. In fact, the replacement shown in the video is one of those POS cores. The one I got today at AutoZone is as nice as the factory core that came out of my 89.

[cgrey8]

How similar is the dash of a 2003 Ranger to an 97 Ranger? I ask because I did find this:
2003 Ranger Heater Core box bolts removed without pulling AC box

[Teddyzee]

When he goes inside the wheelwell, you can see the stud on the box that passes through to the interior. It stays on the box, he has already removed the nut from inside.

If you look at my picture, there is a nut between the two firewall holes, near the top of the holes. If that attaches to the heater core, it's the only fastener blocked by the box. Surely you could loosen the box and get to that nut.

Are you working on a 1989? I heard they were more simple. I'll see if I can dig anything up.

[Teddyzee]

Remembered I have a Haynes manual for '83-'92 at my feet...

Early trucks have an access panel on the passenger side. Remove the coolant hoses in the engine bay, remove5 screws for the access panel on the interior, and pull the core down and out. Pretty simple looking.

EDIT: And now I just read the first line of your original post, 1997... Sorry about that!!

[cgrey8]

Yeah, I own both an 89 and 97 Ranger. The 89 Ranger is the one with the V8. The 97 is my 2nd vehicle I bought years ago before I did the swap because the 89 was getting old and I knew either the engine or tranny were about to give out. So I bought the 97 as a backup. It's been a good 2nd vehicle, but I've never enjoyed driving the 97 as much as the 89. And now that the 89 has the V8 AND gets better fuel economy, I have to force myself into the 97 just to crank it and keep it running. Now, I'm just tired of paying insurance and taxes on a vehicle I never drive. And the used car market has never been better for sellers. So once this 331 swap is done and I'm fairly confident that the 89 is back together in reliable form, I'll be ready to let the 97 go.

Back to the topic, the videos above indicate there are only 3 nuts that have to be removed from the engine bay to release the heater box inside. However there's a 4th bolt I see in the picture and reading forum posts, I keep hearing about a bolt "behind the engine" that people have to get to.

97RangerHeaterBoxBolts.jpg (17.57 KiB) Viewed 6341 times

Are the bolts shown here in yellow heater box bolts or are they something else?

[fordmike]

It was a two day project to change it in my Expedition.

Wow two days? I did my heater core and the blend door (Mine was broke) in just a touch over two hours. I have since did three more and getting ready to do one for my neighbor on his Expedition.

[Teddyzee]

Your two red arrows on the right are for the blower box, so is the unlabelled one on the top left, beside the hinge. The hole below the hing, at the level of the lowest yellow arrow, is the hole for the blower box stud, with the nut on the interior.

I will guess the red arrow on the left is for the heater core. Your bottom yellow arrow is a rubber thing, not sure if there is a bolt in it. I thought it was a drain.
No idea what the yellow arrow in the center of the firewall is (at right). That would be a huge heater core!

The locations for the engine-side blower box are also studs, I suppose they could hold something inside, too.

This is not a job I hope I ever need to do!

[Teddyzee]

Definitely not a bolt!