Need help on my heater box??

87fiveoranger · Post by **87fiveoranger** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:52 pm

I have a 87 ranger 2wd that i'm doing to v8 swap to, and i was wanting to know what the best thing is to do to the heater and a/c box to clear my valve covers,can anyone help me??? And another question my headers i'm going to try to use is factory mustang headers from the 80's models will they work or can you do any modifications to them to make them work? I need some help guys i'm going to try to get this done before the 4th of July. Thanks Brandon

MalcolmV8 · Post by **MalcolmV8** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:55 pm

If you search this forum for heater box mods you'll find a lot. Everything from cutting it up and using sheet metal to rebuild it with clearance, to fiber glassing it. Some of the slickest mods I've seen have been to just use a heat gun and soften it and use something round like a pop can to roll it in and create the clearance you need.

carvinmark · Post by **carvinmark** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:27 pm

MalcolmV8 wrote:If you search this forum for heater box mods you'll find a lot. Everything from cutting it up and using sheet metal to rebuild it with clearance, to fiber glassing it. Some of the slickest mods I've seen have been to just use a heat gun and soften it and use something round like a pop can to roll it in and create the clearance you need.

I really like the heat gun idea!

plowboy34 · Post by **plowboy34** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:30 pm

Yup....me too. I cut mine and fiberglassed it but that was before knowing the heat gun idea. If I ever do another one it will be a heat gun and oil filter for me.

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:37 pm

plowboy34 wrote:Yup....me too. I cut mine and fiberglassed it but that was before knowing the heat gun idea. If I ever do another one it will be a heat gun and oil filter for me.

Ditto. In fact, I may need to revisit my fiberglass job with this 331. I tried my best to keep things exactly the same as the 302, but the Explorer valve covers just won't work with my RRs without a THICK valvecover gasket. The thickness only raises the cover maybe 1/4", but it was a tight fit to start with. So I may have to do some fire-heating of my box to get it to clearance in the tight areas.

whisperer · Post by **whisperer** » Fri May 13, 2011 1:37 pm

Haha, I started the heat and clearance the heater box thing, or at I never heard of it before mine. It took all of 5 minutes. I used a heat gun and an oil filter to do the job. There's pics at http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... 71611.html

I used the try-Y headers and they worked great. I did have to modify them to clear the later model bellhousing as they are made for a 65 Mustang which uses a smaller bellhousing. I will be selling try-Ys to fit the big bellhousing and the Ranger chassis soon. Also they will not clear an AOD as-is. They will clear a C4 or 4 & 5 speeds.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri May 13, 2011 2:25 pm

Yep, think from all I've ever heard, the early Tri-Y's work good with the 157 t bellhousing. No notching of the frame required.
Dave

Teddyzee · Post by **Teddyzee** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:39 pm

Guys, if you want to throw this into your vocabulary:
We discovered on one of the other sites that Tri-Y headers do not work with the '94/'95 T5 and belhousing, which is the same/similar to the sn95- 3.8 V6 T5. (the belhousings are stamped differently, but look similar- giant 3.8 and 5.0 cast on top of them)

The loop that holds the clutch cable hits the header on the driver side (easy fix), and the starter is in the way on the driver side. Basically, the clutch fork and starter are both positioned lower, like at 4oclock and 7oclock ish.

I can dig up some pictures, but this is good info to keep in mind when someone discovers they do not fit

I'm going to throw this in a new topic, I guess. Can't hurt.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri May 13, 2011 8:21 pm

Teddy, I saw that over there and had a hard time realizing that the bellhousings were that different. I knew the depth was different. Maybe that's why they made you a V-8 moderator over there! You are always packed full of pictures and info. Keep up the great work where ever you land.
Dave

MalcolmV8 · Post by **MalcolmV8** » Sat May 14, 2011 8:56 am

Dave they are quite a bit different. When I built my red truck I had to switch from the 94/95 style bell housing to the 93 as the diameter was just to big. It hit the transmission/firewall tunnel all over. I have pics of the two side by side over here

http://www.v8-ranger.com/red/t5/t5.php

jzwartster · Post by **jzwartster** » Sun May 15, 2011 9:54 am

The only real obstacles In the swan that needs modification is the heater box. you can draw out what you want to remove and reverse it zip strip it into place seal it and run it. I lost my peice and have card board and run fine. Dont think your going to have much luck with the headers I have some shorty swap headers that needs some welding you can have for 20 bucks you pay shipping. I do have them listed with pics so you can see some pics.

V8-Ranger.com

Need help on my heater box??

Need help on my heater box??

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