Ladder Bar's vs stock springs and trac-bars

[usmcrp1044]

So, still havent even started with the truck yet but already have big dreams

Anyway, originally I was considering cal-trac bars, but then I was shown this ladder bar setup. The caltracs alone were like $400, and I would need to replace a couple spring hangers in my truck anyways. One is broken... I recently did the entire rear suspension on my other truck which consisted of spring hangers, leaf springs, and shocks. That was like $400 in the end to, and thats doing all the work myself.

So, my real question is, do you guys think I should just spend the $700 and have the adjustments of the ladder bar setup rather than screwing with leaf springs and a caltracs setup? Cost wise, it might end up being somewhat close as it is, because this kit supposedly comes with everything needed.

If it matters I'm going to have an 8.8 rear end with probably 3.73's or 4.10's, 28x13 inch or so tires, c4 w/full manual valve body, and about 300 horse motor. Fuel cell will be in the bed, so no gas tank issues.

Obviously the kit requires some welding, but thats no issue what so ever as well.

The kits in S&W race cars. They have a website, but it was just as easy to scan the ad.

[Warpig Racing]

in my opinion, thats a lot of money for what you get. If welding is no problem, just fab up your own. I reused the stock leaf springs and moved them inside the frame. I just made some 3/16 plate to fit the inside of the frame to give me a flush mounting point. For traction bars, i used 3 point tractor bars from farm supply ($15 each). I used some air shocks for a chevy truck (about $50). I used 2x2 tubing for the upper shock mount. I made some plates that sandwiched the springs for my lower shock mounts. and i used some 4x2 tubing for crossmembers. My total cost was maybe $125 including harware, steel, and paint.













More pics here http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o117 ... ?start=all

[widetireranger]

Warpig, how well does your truck hook with those 3 point tractor bars?

[Warpig Racing]

They do a good job.. The rear end is very stiff.

[usmcrp1044]

Warpig, I like your setup. And I like the cost of it even more. When you say that the rear is 'stiff' what do you mean? I'm trying to avoid a burnout machine that I imagine I would have with the stock leaf setup. I know someone with a blown 67 chevelle with basically stock suspension. All it does is spin tires, and I'd rather hook up.

Does your setup lift the front at all? You seem like you know what your doing with your stuff, thats for sure.
Definitely appreciate all your pointers.

[88ranger306]

leaf springs with trac bars are fine for anything short of tens, all you need is good weight transfer. Set your truck up to distribute weight toward the back and you will be good. (aluminum heads= -50 lbs off the front) fuel cell and battery box in the back will do well too.

[usmcrp1044]

leaf springs with trac bars are fine for anything short of tens, all you need is good weight transfer. Set your truck up to distribute weight toward the back and you will be good. (aluminum heads= -50 lbs off the front) fuel cell and battery box in the back will do well too.

I've got iron heads... I'm moving the battery and fuel cell to the back like I said. Fuel cell will be right over the axle, I'm assuming thats the best spot? I'm planning on a Jegster 8 point cage to, and thats weight at about the halfway point and a little farther back. Anything else that I would need to build around in order to get good weight transfer?

[Warpig Racing]

Weight transfer is key. Do all you can to get teh weight to transfer to the back. My custom motor mounts were made to have adjustment in them. The heads are extremely close to the firewall. I also put aluminum heads on and moved the battery and fuel cell to the back. As far as lift... not yet. I hope when i get back to the track and start to spray i will see it take flight

With this set up, I hookup nicely. No wheel hop like a lot of rear leaf spring get. The location of the forward links serves the same purpose of the ladder bars without the pirce. They also have lots of adjustment. Only downside is that they are heavier than the ladder bars (i think the bolts are 1-1/8 diameter steel threads) but I also know i dont have to worry about them. And the extra weight is almost directly over the rear axle. I dont get to rack up many miles on the truck so i dont know how well it would be in a daily driver. Only thionk that i wanted to different was installing coil overs but i didnt want to spend the extra $300 at the time but i am satisfied with how it turned out. My project already went WAY over budget before i even got the engine assembled.

[Warpig Racing]

Oh yeah.. only thing i might add later is a panhard bar. I probably dont need it since i dont exactly do any cornering but i might still add it when i get a chance.

[88ranger306]

usmcrp1044, I know at the track I go to you do not need a cage until you go 11.49 or faster. I would wait and see how fast you go before spending that kind of dough on a cage. From the sound of it your setup will be similar to mine, i'm planning on going around 12.50's on the motor and somewhere in the mid-high elevens on nitrous. Motor setup is a 1995 5.0 .30 over with the e303 cam, 1.6 rr on afr 165's, parker funnel web intake with a holley 650 double pump carb(mech secondaries)

[usmcrp1044]

I know that I dont need a cage because of time. The local track here is 11.49 for the cutoff and then you need a cage, driveshaft loop, certified 5 points, and a few others.

But I'm going to 'overbuild' the truck to an extent, and a rollcage just makes it look cool.
And if I do build a better motor in the future, I dont have to worry about hacking up the truck to put in a cage.

[splash_o'_yelow]

check out dalpilot's truck out on rangerpowersports.com . it may be under 6.0 powerstroke build under the v8 ranger section. he had his cage welded in place in the truck. and actually got it looking good. hes planning on around 1000hp and 1200lb feet of torque. its a serious f***in truck. but hes got the money cause hes an airline pilot.

[armandjones82]

I think having a good Ladder Bar like what s&w and other branded parts would provide, i'm sure it is much better than the stock springs and the traction bars. In having that said, try to search into some things in order to really make things work out.

[rangerfab]

Ive used trac bars in the past but they limit suspension travel. The work well keeping suspension from swaying. But raises your chances for a roll over.