Plug wires

[87sc302]

I installed the Duraspark ignition about 2 months ago with new MSD plug wires and they are starting to arc already.

Should I put resistor inline to lower power?

I know this just as about as dangerous as asking what is the best carburator but....

Any recommendations for better wires?


Thanks

[cgrey8]

I've had really good luck with my Universal Summit Racing wires. I cut them to length and crimped the distributor ends and so far they are working just fine. The only issue I've had with them is I had a wire lay on a header and started arching to the header once the header burnt through. To fix it, I wrapped the burnt section in electrical tape and got the wire off the header. It's near nothing metal now and even in its damaged state hasn't given me any trouble. Its in the back of my mind to get the set replaced, but until I have an issue, I'm content to leave them be. I'll consider replacing the set when I get the 331 put together.

[87sc302]

Chris
Thanks for the recommendation. I have been watching your 331 build and may build one myself but for now I want to learn from you and the others.
Does the stroker kit use 50 or 28 oz balance? are you using forged pistons?

[cgrey8]

Most all aftermarket setups expect 28oz balance. But I have a 50oz flywheel and 34oz Explorer balancer. At 1st, I wanted to just have the stroker crank setup for 50oz, but after seeing what they have to do to a crank to get it to be 50oz, I've rethought that approach. So what I'll do is have him balance the setup with my flywheel and balancer. From there he can do a combination of drilling on the crank and on the flywheel. He said he can lighten the flywheel by taking metal off the cast-in balance to make it closer to a 28oz. He can also give me a balance sheet so he can make another if I ever need it in the future since what I'll have won't be something I could get off-the-shelf.

The pistons will be forged. Standard connecting rods (nothing special with them). And a cast crank. For the modest HP numbers I'm aiming for, there's little reason to go with a forged crank.

The machinist did highly recommend an align-hone and deck of the block. He said stock blocks are rarely the same deck height on all 4 corners particularly after the block as been run and seasoned. Now that the block is seasoned, it'll "hold" the alignment and decking much better than they hold the factory alignment and deck work...and the factory machine work is more "speed" focused, not precision focused. He guarantees a far more accurate machine job than the block had originally. Being I want this block to be my new engine for at least the next 100kmiles, I'm willing to put a few extra hundred into it. And this added attention will improve the efficiency of the motor some.