4.0L ranger clutch master

[austin]

Either on this forum or therangerstation, i read that the 4.0L ranger clutch master cylinder is larger than other ranger master's. (meaning it moves more fluid) I put a ZF S542 trans in my ranger and need a larger master. I ended up using the master from a f250 but since this one was designed to mount parallel to the firewall i had to mount it lower on the clutch pedal. I could not mount it higher on the pedal to gain leverage because i would hit the brake master. I lost leverage due to this and now the clutch is extremely stiff. My original master was mounted at an angle to the firewall and it seems the ones for the 4.0L ranger also mount at an angle. I am wondering if anyone knows if the 4.0L clutch master is bigger than other ranger masters and mounts at an angle. If anyone knows the specific bore diameter, that would be amazing.

[Dave]

Hey Austin, been wondering how the swap was going. ChrisG and several others went thru a lot getting the right one to work. It was TeddyZee over at TRS who has helped the most. What size is the slave cylinder (bore/stroke) you are using? It's really just a math problem to see what MC will have enough fluid pus to operate the slave. I think all the Ranger masters have a 1" stroke. I had saved a bunch of info, Teddy has the last comments with the part numbers and what he had to do to get it to work. Sure hope this help.
Dave - Here in Point




viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1712&p=14262&hilit= ... lic#p14262

My truck was stock 5 speed and I prefer having a manual. So keeping it a 5 speed with a T5 was a no brainer. I never even considered an automatic and I haven't regretted that decision once. The effort of getting the tranny to work with the stock equipment was just a matter of making a plate for an 83-84 Ranger external slave cylinder to work with the stock clutch master and hydraulic line.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1545&hilit=hydraulic

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1393&hilit=+hydraulic

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1256&p=10524&hilit= ... lic#p10524

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=250266

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

Master

Installed the 88 mc and a new 280 slave, benchbled it and installed and it worked great! Only had to preload a rotation or two on the nut from zero lash. Soooooooo much easier and less headaches to just pull the sytem out and bench bleed it.
To swap to the 88 mc I had to use a cutoff wheel to remoce the square hole the old mc locked into. I then made a cardboard template of the moutning flange to drill the two mounting holes. Everything else bolted right up.
Thanks guys!
Oreilly part number CMA39896
Ddvance part number 39896

NAPA United 37497 at NAPA $18

[cgrey8]

I remember researching this years ago and there were supposed to be two different size clutch master cylinders. What I found was that the one that was advertised as being larger wasn't really any larger when taken apart. I never did find a clutch master that was actually larger than another. So I wound up just using the clutch master that was already on the truck along with the 83-84 Ranger V6 clutch slave you see in those threads Dave posted. I found that with some preload, the clutch disengages just fine. I was worried that having the clutch setup the way it is that I'd loose the auto-adjusting feature of a hydraulic clutch system and have to occasionally adjust the preload on the clutch fork, but in the 45kmiles its been on the road as a V8, I haven't had to do 1 thing to the clutch. It's worked beautifully. I had far more issues with things like header bolts wanting to back out and burn up exhaust manifold gaskets than I ever had with the clutch setup.

Now one thing I do recall is that around 95 I think, the clutch masters got smaller which means they might have trouble trying to use that 83-84 Clutch Slave. I haven't heard of anybody with a 95-newer Ranger using that setup to know if there's an actual issue there or not.

[austin]

I have a 7/8 bore master right now that works to push the concentric slave, but i just cant mount the master right. In this link, http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=250266

teddyzee shows the larger 7/8 master but it says "Here's the stock 5/8" master on the left, with the much larger 7/8" master from an '88-'91, non 4.0 truck. You can see it has an angled flange that bolts to the firewall. (firewall strength is an issue, that's why the design changed, I believe)

Im confused, where did he get this master from, i thought the bigger one was with the 4.0 truck. Here it says non 4.0 truck. The bigger one in the picture is exactly what i need but i just dont know what it is from.

Ill get some pics of the truck up here once its a sunny day to take pictures! Its done and driving, just finishing up the details like interior and rats nest of wires in the engine bay. The trans, intake, and carb work just great Dave! Thanks a lot. The truck has true duals all the way to the back so it sounds amazing. Ill post pics within the week

[cgrey8]

My truck is an 89 and has the angled flange style that they are calling a 7/8" master. Like I said when I took the 7/8" master apart next to a 3/4" master, they were the same size plungers. They would've gone back together with the other's plunger no problem.

The master on the left in those pictures is the newer clutch master design that began in 95 and those are smaller diameter than the older masters. Like I said, I don't know anybody with a 95-newer setup that has used that 83-84 external Ranger slave. So I have no clue what you can do to make that work other than some creative fab work.

And yes, firewall strength was an issue. My truck had cracks in the firewall from years of holding up to my pushing the clutch with the V6. When I pulled the carpet out to replace it, I had the cracks welded up so they wouldn't continue to grow. I check the firewall every now-n-then, but the welds seem to have stopped that problem in its tracks. I don't expect firewall cracks will ever be an issue now.

[v8ranger]

This is how mine is set up.

[cgrey8]

The green rod isn't going to work for you. You'll need to replace that with a threaded rod so you can preload the clutch fork. Read this thread:
It runs, but the clutch doesn't completely disengage
It will explain what you need to do.

[v8ranger]

I remember that thread about the threadded rod. I never had to do that with mine. This is my secound year with my setup, so far so good.....

[austin]

I don't have a clutch fork, i have a concentric slave

[cgrey8]

I HATED the concentric slave design of my V6 and was quite happy to do what was necessary to go to an external slave setup. I know some people preferred that setup and used the McLoud center slave design. But I much prefer not having to pull the tranny when the slave goes bad and starts leaking. I had to do that too many times with the old V6 and it was such a headache pulling the tranny over the exhaust and getting it lined up going back in with it. The T5 setup where the tranny and bell are separate is also much nicer. It also helps that the T5 is a little toybox of a transmission compared to the POS 5 speed I pulled when the truck was a V6. It was a huge and heavy transmission to be so crappy.

[Dave]

Austin,
Do you have the specs of what master cylinder mates up with that hycraulic slave/throwout bearing? I would think it would be just a matter of finding one of the one mentioned early to fit your firewall and provide enough push/volume to make everything work.
Chris,
That ZF trans must be 100 lbs heaver than what you had to deal with.
Dave

[cgrey8]

Yeah ZFs are big monsters too. They even have cast iron tops don't they? The V6 5 speed wasn't quite that heavy, but it was a lot heavier than the T5.

[austin]

well heres the current set up, in the picture with the master pushrod you can see that the stock rod hooked up about 2-3inches higher, that is where i want to hook up to.

[austin]

Here are some pictures of the truck before the 302 swap, the monster ZF trans that went in, Interior, and modified 2.8 engine

[Teddyzee]

Thought I heard my name...

I used NAPA part number NNC 39896

One year it was offered on was 1989 2.3 and 2.9. (I can't post a link form napaonline.com that will stay active)

If you check my various thread on RPS (http://www.rangerpowersports.com) you will see how I used this. It is designed for '94 or older trucks that bolt the master to the firewall. '95 and later have the master clipped into the pedal bracket. I just cut the pedal bracket and drilled some bolt holes.
My truck is a 1997, and it had the 4.0 with the 5/8" master cyl. This swap solved all my problems.

My 8 build:
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=245931

A quote from my thread:

Posted by Teddyzee Here's a couple more pic of the clutch slave ('84 Ranger Diesel), being pushed by an '88 Ranger 7/8" master.

Threaded rod, with an adjustable piece to add some preload. Still fine-tuning this. I may make a new rod, and put it to the inner hole in the clutch fork. Finding the sweet spot between slipping and going easily into gear.
The CenterForce Dual Friction clutch has centrifugal weights in the pressure plate. When there's a little slippage, you can feel them work if you hammer the gas. It actually stops slipping. But oh, the smell! I'll get it right soon.





The angles are off a little, as the slave was originally mounted in a set of holes further forward. It was much easier to mount the slave once bled in the rearward holes, that gave more exposed rod so the adjustment nuts (3) could be reached.

The only way I found possible to bleed this POS setup was to remove the slave, and pull it up to the master. Remove the line. The line would drip a little, bleeding itself. Then fill the slave manually, shaking, squeezing, getting all the air out. Left the adapter in the slave, so it just needed to thread back onto the line.

Carefully, the line was re-attatched to the line up by the master, keeping all the air out. It can be bled at the line if necessary, but i did not do this on my final time. The bleeder on the slave is usless, it always introduced air to the system.

Feed the slave and line back down to the belhousing and re-attatch. This was definately the least frustrating way to do it.

End quote.

The clutch thread:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/ ... p?t=250266

[QUOTE=Teddyzee;2140250]Swapped my master cylinder yesterday. Haven't finished bleeding it yet, I was working alone. May tackle that today.

Here's the pedal bracket that holds the stock 5/8" master cyl on the '95 and later trucks. The master slides into the square hole, then gets a quarter turn to lock in place:


Here's the stock 5/8" master on the left, with the much larger 7/8" master from an '88-'91, non 4.0 truck. You can see it has an angled flange that bolts to the firewall. (firewall strength is an issue, that's why the design changed, I believe)


The larger round end does not fit through the square hole, of course... so off it came. Looks like aluminum, cut like white metal. Super easy:


This is a shot from inside the fender well. I removed the inner fender again. The hole on the right was drilled from the inside. The line for the remote resevoir rests up against the brake booster. I used the longer line from the stock resevoir. The short one likely would have fit, as the 7/8" master has the outlet at a more direct angle to the res (not shown):


Stock 5/8" master on the left, showing the adaptor for the -3an braided line (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-6 ... view=sku):


And the finished product from inside (before the clutch pedal position sensor was re-attatched):


Hope this works![/QUOTE]

Some other tips:
I'm using a 1983/84 Ranger/BII slave, from the diesel. (3 different slaves were used those years, with different mounting style. 4cyl mounts like an f150, with no bolts. The v6 mounts with bolts parallel to the slave, and mine bolts perpendicular.) Huge thanks to v8-ranger.com for showing me this.
I used a -3AN braided line connected with a pair of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-6 ... toview=sku

I finally put the slave threaded rod to the hole closest to the trans on the clutch fork. This gives my a longer push than the outer hole did. Slightly stiffer, but about 25% as firm as the cable clutch in my '97 GT!
Also, the clutch fork has probably 2" of preload on it, before I even touch the pedal. I fine tuned this to be closer to grinding into gear (it does not) and further from slipping the clutch (it does not).