Manual steering box

[88ranger306]

Hey guys i'm converting over to manual steering, oil lines are still too close to the power steering box (kinking on it). Have any of you done this?

[Warpig Racing]

I did. piece of cake. Only thing that i recall is that the splines were different on mine but didnt matter cause i built a custom shaft to get rid of the rubber disk. my rubber disk would not clear my headers. I basically cut down the stock shaft that was coming through the firewall. i used (3/4" I think) solid stock that fit snugly inside the stock column. i drilled a hole all the way through so it would be removable. Then used a universal weld in U joint, then connected it to a aftermarket u-joint/coupler to the steering box. From what i recall the u-joint and coupler were moroso brand and about $40 each. the solid stock was some scrap that I had on the side of the house.

note one of the pics shows it bolted up. i did that for mock up then went back and welded them all except the one that fits into the steering column and the point the connects to the steering box. Didnt want to loose steering.

If you go with a u joint setup like this be sure and install them correctly. they need to be 90* different otherwise you will not be able to steer and it will bind.

[plowboy34]

On the boy's 85 it was as simple as swapping the steering boxes. When we first did the swap we removed the power steering box and bolted on a manual, when we put in new engine with Explorer front accesories we reinstalled the power gear box. No mods what so ever, simply removed one and installed the other.

[88ranger306]

Hey thanks alot guys, very helpful.

[v8ranger]

Can I ask why you would want to get rid of the power steering??? I dont see why you would want to do that. The horsepower gain from it doesnt seem worth it. Are you building it for just the track?

[MalcolmV8]

His original post says for clearance issues with the oil lines.

[v8ranger]

Oh, duh, I did read that. I dont know why he would. What motor mounts are you using? I cant say I have heard of anyone saying they couldnt keep the power steering. I didnt have any problems. Do you have pics of your setup?? I would like to see why you are having problems.

[88ranger306]

Well the motor plates that are welded in are james duff. The swap in my truck was done in 2000, I had to buy new james duff motor mounts because they didnt come with the truck. Apparently James Duff changed the mounts since 2000, because they didn't fit. Had to pull the motor out and use a cutting torch to notch the plates. The motor is back in and secure, but the lines running straight off of the block kink on the gear. Another reason i'm switching over is because it is going to be for the track, only occasional cruises on the street.

[Warpig Racing]

sounds like you are using the remote oil filter adapter that the lines come straight out from the block? maybe the kit that Summit sells?

If thats the problem, there is a much easier and cheaper fix. Get the relocation adapter that comes out sideways. I picked mine up for $20 at a local race shop. I think L&L sells a nicer but more expensive one for $70 or so.

Something like this

[Warpig Racing]

here. Something like this will work.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

It comes with a cheap O ring that leaked on me. i found that the LS1 camero oil filters had the correct size O ring so i bought a cheap filter and used the O ring from it.

[88ranger306]

You know, I was looking at yours and I was like well, I had to be an asshole and get the one that comes straight out hahaha. Thanks warpig I'm gonna order that peice. Yeah The kit I have is the transdapt one off of summit.

[Warpig Racing]

Well I made the same mistake. I got one of those sitting in a box. I originally tried it with brass elbows and still didnt work out.

Plus, I dont recall gaining much (if any) clearance when i swapped from power to manual steering. I did the swap because i wanted a clean install. No PS pump = no belt, no hoses, and no bulky pump. Manual steering is not that difficult.

[88ranger306]

Yeah I don't have the power steering pump anyway so i'de rather just switch to manual and keep it cleaner looking under the hood.

[Ryans5.8ranger]

ALSO fORD RACEING MAKES A NICE adapter too........But do what i did, and go to a hose crimping place ,,farm eqp dealer etc and get new hoses made with swivels on each end ...worry free oil lines for life , no hose clamps , or thin cracking crappy lines ....also they are steel braided..

[cgrey8]

I use the L&L adapter to get a free-swivel. The Canton adapter is similar to the L&L, although it is a little thicker. Here's a thread detailing the differences between the L&L and Canton:
L&L Vs Canton remote oil adapters

In hindsight, I probably could've gotten away with the Canton as there's plenty of clearance with the L&L adapter for me. But I was in a time-crunch and didn't want anything like an oil filter adapter delaying my getting the truck running so I got the L&L adapter anyway. Now that I have the L&L installed, I'll obviously continue to use it until it gives me some kind of trouble. But I would recommend the Canton as well as they both appear to be quality parts. The one thing I can say positive about the Canton OVER the L&L is it uses standard O-rings on the bolt and on the oil seal surface of the block. So if it ever leaks, you can replace the seals. The L&L has some kind of funky rubber-coated washer that seals the bolt. I have no clue where I'd get another one of those if it decides to start leaking. I'd probably just silicone coat the washer and hope it holds until I could get a proper replacement from L&L.