I Need Info About The Fuel Lines

[Grumpy]

I Need Info About The Fuel Lines That MalcolmV8 Has On His Red Ranger.

BTW .. im new to the site adn have been doing ALOT of reading over the past 2 to 2 1/2 years to do this V-8 conversion and now have most of the info i need . Including all the part #'s and where to get them adn a basic ballpark price range. But i do have a few questions that i would like to ask.

1. Will Mac long tube headers from a 1990 Mustang GT work for the swap or do i really need to get the Headman ones??

2.) and this is one of the MOST important things ..... WHERE can i get the fittings for the EFI fuel rail that MalcomV8 has on his red Ranger .... if i can just get the locking ends then i think i can make the length that i need to go from the drivers side of the Ranger to the passengers side of the 5.0 to connect them up..

3.) i got all the links to get the clutch fluid line and get it all connected .. BUT ... i think im going to go a diff route than MOST .. if not ALL ... of the ppl here that use a slave cyl for the clutch and have to make the brackets and all that trouble.......... im going to use a McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing that goes inside the bell housing adn slips on the collar shaft of the input shaft. it costs WAY more (about $350 to $480) but it will be WELL worth it because of the clearance probs to the floor pan and all.. if you want to see one in a kit ill post you a link to see it ..... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku ...

4.) now to tell what all i got that im going to put into my 1990 Ranger and what i have done to it so far ... its a LIST so i hope yall like to read ... lol ....................... ok here goes ......

i got a 1990 Mustang GT that used to be my MAIN transportation and i have had it since 1992 its a 5.0 .. F303 cam .. ported and polished heads .. Mac long tube 1 5/8 headers with off road H pipe 2 chamber flowmasters .. Tremec TKO 600 .. Alum drive shaft .. 8.8 rear with Auburn Pro Diff with 3:73 gears Moser custom alloy street axles with a T&A rear girdle .. car was converted to 5 lug all the way around with Weld Pro Stars . 15 x 3.5 on the front and 15 x 8 on the rear .. Will be doing a mid shifter conversion on the Tremec as to retain the factory shift location in the Ranger .. MSD 6AL ignition .. MSD 2 step .. Hurst Line Lock .. NOS (150 to 250 HP shot) .. K&N filter .. SVO aluminum 3 core radiator .. Flex-A-Lite electric fan .. Center Force Clutch Assembly .. FMS Steel Flywheel .. South side lift bars with BBK upper control arms .. Lakewood drag struts and shocks .. underdrive pullies .. 130 AMP Escort Alt .. 190 LPH in tank fuel pump .. and the list goes on .. but not much more cuz i will not be able to use a pretty good bit of the Stang stuff so ill have parts left that ill prob put on Ebay ... along with a 4" cowl hood ... but ill be using the COMPLETE wiring harness and computer and stuff from the Stang .

Now.. to list the stuff that i got done to the Ranger now... its a short list right now but after i get going and get it started around tax time in Feb. of 2009 ill keep yall posted and start a pic gallery or something somewhere or just fire me up a web page somewhere in the Universe and post them there and then post a link to the site on here.. if thats ok ??

ok.. here goes .... i bought a 1990 Ranger Custom about 4 1/2 years ago .. it had NO a/c or radio or radio ant. from the factory ,but i bought another 90 Ranger and put all the a/c stuff on it and added my ant. and pioneer radio . oh it had NO interior other than Blue vinyl bench seat and a heater and a RUBBER thing called a carpet and the seat was TRASHED so it HAD to go 1st thing !! well i got some Gray seats and belts and sunvisors and carpet and interior lights from a 04 Ranger that was crashed and had to fabricate seat brackets and then do more fabbing to get them to bolt into my Ranger but i got them in and they look good too .. then i bought the rest of the interior trim and headliner from a friend and had to recover the headliner in gray and dye the plastic trim pieces to match and added a Shelf-It from LMC Trucks. I have also lowered it 3 inches in the front and 4 inches in the rear put on a bed cover (which at the time i bought it .. cost MORE than i gave for the Ranger) i put on a set of Weld Drag Lites 15 x 6 (185/85/15)front and 15 x 8 rear(295/50/15) tinted windows .. put in a sliding rear window .. added a set of MA Audio 12" subs and a 780 watt amp (till i can get my other 780 watt amp to join this one .. total of 1560 watts) .. converted the PLAIN instrument panel with NO tach to one i got out of my sons 89 BroncoII after he totaled it .. added Nite Glow Electro-Luminescent Gauges .. put in an 94 Explorer grille (looks like the STX option that LMC shows)..


OK .. i think that is about it for now ..... if ANYONE has ANY info or tips or tricks or ANYTHING they would like to share with me .. PLZ let me know either here or on hotmail or MSN grumpy_01@hotmail.com I am doing this on a TIGHT budget as i am disabled with back probs and will more than likely be doing ALL of this all by myself.

One more thing .. i have done my homework and am going to use the L&L kit but not buy the oil pan as i will not need it cuz mine already has it. and will be swapping out the RUBBER parts in the mounts for Polyurthane bushings for LONG life.

ok enuff about my project and all .. would LOVE to hear from you all and let me know your thoughts and opinions.

Later and Peace from Oxford Mississippi
Kevin A.K.A. Grumpy

[cgrey8]

...1. Will Mac long tube headers from a 1990 Mustang GT work for the swap or do i really need to get the Headman ones??

I believe most any Mustang header will "work" as long as you don't mind notching your frame for header clearance. That also assumes you are using standard heads too. If you are running GT40p heads, you'll be limited to only GT40p-compatible headers like the stock tube or cast Iron Explorer exhaust manifolds, FMS Explorer headers (aftermarket upgrade for the Explorer stock manifolds), FMS Mustang GT40p headers, MAC GT40p headers, and Torque Monster headers.

...2.) and this is one of the MOST important things ..... WHERE can i get the fittings for the EFI fuel rail that MalcomV8 has on his red Ranger .... if i can just get the locking ends then i think i can make the length that i need to go from the drivers side of the Ranger to the passengers side of the 5.0 to connect them up...

I don't know which connectors you are referring to so I'll let him answer the specific question. However I will offer that what I did was went to a junk yard and clipped the spring lock connectors off various vehicles that I saw had the right size connectors and used them to make my fuel connections work. I had concerns about whether that would work or not, but it worked perfectly and was one of the most seamless fabrications of all the things I had to fabricate during my project.

3.) i got all the links to get the clutch fluid line and get it all connected .. BUT ... i think I'm going to go a diff route than MOST .. if not ALL ... of the ppl here that use a slave cyl for the clutch and have to make the brackets and all that trouble.......... I'm going to use a McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing that goes inside the bell housing and slips on the collar shaft of the input shaft. it costs WAY more (about $350 to $480) but it will be WELL worth it because of the clearance probs to the floor pan and all.. if you want to see one in a kit ill post you a link to see it ..... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku ...

There have been quite a number of people that went with the McLeod slave, but it seems most of them regretted that choice after a few years when the slave started leaking. Like all center-mount slaves, they will leak. And when they do, it requires the pulling of the tranny and bell to get to it. Not to mention the steep pricetag associated with replacing them. If your Ranger came with a manual to start with and you plan to go with a T5, you can use 90% of your stock equipment including the line going from the master down to the slave. But you do have to fabricate a plate for the slave to mount on. That sounds like a daunting task but I was surprised how straight forward it was. I had my plate cut and drilled in just a few hours. Reusing the stock 83-84 Ranger V6 slave cylinder, it mounts right to the slave and even reuses my Ranger's quick-disconnect fitting so my hydraulic line snaps right onto the slave just like it was stock. And if the slave ever leaks and needs replacing, it's a standard part stocked at most auto parts stores and is far more affordable than the McLeod unit...not to mention, it can be replaced without pulling the tranny. Before you decide for sure to go with the McLeod, reconsider the external slave idea. They aren't hard to setup at all. To read more and see pics of what I did, check out these threads:
Parts needed to adapt the T5 into the Ranger
It runs, but the clutch doesn't completely disengage

...i got a 1990 Mustang GT that used to be my MAIN transportation and i have had it since 1992 its a 5.0 .. F303 cam .. ported and polished heads .. Mac long tube 1 5/8 headers with off road H pipe 2 chamber flowmasters .. Tremec TKO 600 .. Alum drive shaft .. 8.8 rear with Auburn Pro Diff with 3:73 gears Moser custom alloy street axles with a T&A rear girdle .. car was converted to 5 lug all the way around with Weld Pro Stars . 15 x 3.5 on the front and 15 x 8 on the rear...

It sounds like you'll be able to reuse a lot of the mechanical stuff. However the TKO600 is different from the T5, so I have no clue what that bell looks like. However if it is similar, I would suspect the same clutch setup would work. However if there's no place to mount a plate onto the bell, you may have a fairly good reason for going with the McLeod. But personally if I had a bell that I couldn't easily bolt a plate to, I'd weld an aluminum plate to the bell so I could run an external slave. I've never heard of a reason not to weld a bell, but maybe there's warping issues?

...Will be doing a mid shifter conversion on the Tremec as to retain the factory shift location in the Ranger...

I thought I'd really hate the T5's shifter location before I did the swap, but now that it's in, I'm quite happy with the location. The shifter is right at my fingertips and it would NOT be if I had the shifter in the stock location. I'd need a big long shifter like the stock Rangers use. Sure something could be fabricated or using the UPR, you could insert your own bar in there and probably reuse the stock Ranger boot. But again after having the shifter where it's at and driving it daily for the past few years, I would not bother. As for the difficulty of cutting the floor, again no worries there. With a reciprocating saw, it cuts like butter. To cover up the stock shifter hole, I replaced the stock carpet with aftermarket carpet which covered right over the stock shifter hole. I also covered over the hole with Bondo fiberglass so it wasn't just a gaping hole down to the tranny that would let road gunk get up onto the carpet. Again, this was much easier than I expected it to be.

As for the H-pipe, unless you relocate your fuel tank to the bed, you aren't likely to make much use of the H-pipe. Leaving the tank in the stock location forces both exhaust lines to run down the passenger's side of the truck. It makes a perfect setup for an X-pipe however.


As for the rest of your comments, I didn't really catch any specific questions. But all of it sounds like you are planning for a beast of a Ranger. That's not a bad thing, but I have to ask. Is this going to be a drag truck, weekend warrior only, or a daily driver? Lots of big differences between what you are planning and what I drive. Mine's just a plain ole stock Explorer 302 in a Supercab Ranger. There are a few goodies like traction bars, but for the most part, it's a stock Ranger with a 302. And it's been a rather reliable daily driver. This January will be 3 years that it's been my daily driver...and I've never once regretted doing the swap even with gas was $4+/gallon. I have plans for a 331 upgrade, but that's been just a plan now for about 2 years. I passed over offers to sell my house before the Real estate market went bust. And with the current crisis, it seems I'll be holding onto it a good bit longer. So until it sells, I'm in limbo with all the fun things I want to do.

[cjcnomor4]

p/n rus-640870 and rus-640880, summitracing.com

[Grumpy]

well with what all i got for right now and from what i PLAN on doing is use this as my daily and MAIN mode of transport....

yeah i got to thinking about the H pipe and thought about cutting it up to make it work but then remembered that the fuel tank is right in the way and i really do not want to relocate it or want to run the exhaust all on the passengers side .. as the left side crossing under the bell housing and run down the truck only to have it cross back over in the rear somewhere to make it exit out the rear as duals .... so.. i came up with another idea that i think im going to try .. i seen this on a diff site .... im going to see if i can have custom headers made that are fender well exit so the exhaust will run under the cab between the door sills and the frame ... that way i will not have to relocate the fuel tank into the bed and will have TONS of room to move stuff around to get it all situated ...

and you do have a GOOD point on the T.O. bearing that i thought about using ... and lo and behold .. i got to going thru my pile of parts and found my slave cyl bracket that i made back 2 years ago .. no need to weld anything to my bell housing ... this one bolts to the 2 trans to bell housing bolts and centers the slave in the right position .. and if im not mistaken .. a 79 or a 89 Ford F150 slave will bolt rigt in the bracket and mate to the release fork for the cluctch .. (not real sure about the year there so ill have to go back thru my stack of notes to be on the money which one will work) .. so i guess ill be going that way now.. cheaper and ALOT easier to get to it if it goes to leaking.

as for my truck being a daily driver ... NEXT year ill prob pull the 5.0 back out and either go with a .030 bore and it be a 306 or just might go a lil bit farther and just stroke the thing out to a 347 like i had before .. as long as i dont have the same probs i had with the stock 5.0 block ..... i SPLIT it in half so i had to pull it all out of the Stang and go thu the engine again but used a SVO block and all with Canfield heads and ALOT of other stuff.. as far as the mechanical and electrical work .. i know what im doing because i used to work in a Speed Shop here and can build anything but an automatic tranny... im 41 and have worked on vehicles since i was 10 years old.... lol

the heads that im using right now are stock ones that are ported and polished by myself .. and didnt know if the Mac headers would fit without notching my frame .. but if they will not fit without doing that then ill find some other headers to go with .. maybe the ones that L&L have ?? then have them ceramic coated to prevent them from EVER rusting thru as long as im alive or as i said a bit ago.... maybe just get a custom set made to exit the fender well so it will all be in a straight line to exit out in front of the rear tires ... and as far as traction .. i KNOW im going to have probs in that department so ill prob add weld in ladder bars or a 4 link setup in the NEAR future too ..

the fuel spring lock connectors Malcolm has on his Red Ranger are either made by Russell or Earls or Aeroquip but i cant find them anywhere .. because if im going to spray the NOS on it ill NEED the larger diameter fuel lines to plumb it all in and not explode my engine due to a lean fuel condition ..

and like you said about the shifter being short and might have to lean forward to shift it... well i got that cured too... i got a GOOD friend that is a machinist and he said he would make me a polished aluminum or stainless steel shifter extention that would work in my truck.... and the price is right on the money too ..... FREE ... LOL

BTW .. i was looking at the pic you posted of your exhaust and seen your aluminum driveshaft ... i see a score mark on it that looks like its rubbing the bottom of the cab or one of the frame stiffening cross members ....

well .. im sorry about all the LONG posts but i just want to lay it ALL out on the table so others can read it too and lend their comments or anything else they would like to add or anything ..

Till later on when i check back for comments......

Peace and God Speed,
Grumpy

[Grumpy]

cjcnomor4 ..... TY for the part #'s but those will not work ... the first part # is for a carburetor inlet and the second part # will not work either as its a universal barb fitting ........ neither one of them will adapt to the Ford fuel rails but i really thank you for your input as to trying to help me get prob the ONLY parts that have eluded me that I WILL and REALLY need .... LOL

[cjcnomor4]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

try copy/paste these. looking at the pic on the online summit catalog they are what you need to attach braided stainless hose to a stock efi fuel rail

[MalcolmV8]

WHERE can i get the fittings for the EFI fuel rail that MalcomV8 has on his red Ranger .... if i can just get the locking ends then i think i can make the length that i need to go from the drivers side of the Ranger to the passengers side of the 5.0 to connect them up..

summitracing.com
or if you'd rather copy the setup I did on the blue ranger which was a heck of a lot cheaper I got those parts from ronmorrisperformance.com

[Grumpy]

cjcnomor4 and MalcolmV8 i GREATLY appreciate the the help and location of the parts i need and all ..... but as i looked at the fittings i had an idea that will only cost me like $8.00 to make the 2 fuel line extentions i need ... all i need to do is take the spring locks off the factory lines on the Stang and off an old fuel rail off another Ranger .. so i take the fittings off them two objects and go to the parts store (NAPA) and get the correct size diameter fuel line hose and make my own in ANY length i need.... i KNOW they carry the fuel line because i had to repair a broken line on my old 93 LX 4 banger i had .. so .. there is one more problem solved .. only a few more to go now ... lol



MalcolmV8 .... may i say you have 2 of the smokingest 5.0 Ranger's that i have seen .. esp the Red one in the shape it was in when you got it and to see it before and after was a transformation that was awesome .. im glad you changed the color to Red too .... that "Green" was SICK!!

well do yall or anyone else have any comment.. Pro or Con .. on the fenderwell exit headers that i mentioned ??

My 90 Ranger is white .... well 2 different colors of white ... right now the cab and front clip is a WHITE (Chevy white im guessing) and the bed is a factory Ford white (which has a light tan tint to it) but will be repainted to a 2 tone job ... from the body line UP will be like a Lambo Black (Blackest and Deepest Black i ever seen) and from the body line DOWN will be a BRIGHT Yellow (Double Yellow .. kind of like the Corvette Canary Yellow) and along the body line im going to add some Grey or Smoke or Titanium or something or other, just to break the color lines .. or might swap the colors up .. Yellow on top and Black on bottom ..

Now ... for the last thing in this reply is a question that anyone can answer .... at the bottom of each post is a description of the owners Rides and projects in creation ....... question is................. how do i add my description to my posts without having to C&P it every time or type it all out ??

Peace and Friendship,
Grumpy

[cjcnomor4]

go to your profile, at the top of the page, then scroll down to signature. if thats set up, under the box you type your reply, above preview and submit is a tick box- attach signature, check it

[cgrey8]

Yeah, others noticed that as well as me. The driveshaft used to rub in the early days and about 6 months ago, I noticed that if I hit a bump real hard or have a heavy load, the driveshaft will sometimes scuff. Fortunately, everything you see I can literally rub off with my fingers. So far, it hasn't scarred the shaft metal. The fix is I need to get a big hammer in there and bang up the areas where it was scuffing like I did in the early days. There's also a heat shroud that sometimes scuffs the shaft too...that's most of the marks. I've pushed it back multiple times but the shifting around of the tank gets that shroud back scuffing every now-n-then. It's on the to-do list along with getting my Wideband installed and getting the stereo back working right.

[Grumpy]

ok.. i went outside and looked in my parts pile and found the slave cyl bracket i made about 2 years ago .. i would post a couple pix of it here to show what it looks like but i do not know how ...... lol

can someone give me a few pointers on how to add pix here ?? TY in advance ..

[cgrey8]

There's a thread explaining how to do this in the "Test" forum. Here's a link:
How to Post Pictures in the Forum


Click the link and that should get you what you need to know.

[Grumpy]

well ... i got a few pix put up on the web and got the forum figured out somewhat so i can post a URL here so yall can go look at my Ranger .... there are only a FEW pix there but WILL be adding more as i progress along .. will TRY to post some pix of the Stang and engine and stuff ... but for now this is all i got ... TY for looking .. and post ANY comments or questions and ill answer them ASAP .. or soon as i can ... whichever comes first .... lmao

http://s381.photobucket.com/albums/oo252/Grumpy_1/

just click the link and it SHOULD take you to my pix .. let me know if it DONT work an ill go get the bag-o-pix and put it all somewhere else .. Happy Looking

[cgrey8]

The 83-84 Ranger V6 slave will work perfect with that plate you have. Depending on the spacing of the 83-84 Ranger external slave, you may have to redrill the mounting holes although just eyeballing it, I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the slave bolts right up. If you haven't already, read over the threads I posted earlier about how I got my slave working using a carriage bolt and the stock Ranger equipment.

Again, if your Ranger is already a stick shift, you should be able to reuse the quick-disconnect hardline and reuse the quick-disconnect fitting that's mounted onto your stock Ranger tranny's clutch slave. That quick disconnect fitting fits the 83-84 Ranger external slave no problems allowing you to reuse almost all of the stock Ranger clutch equipment.

[Grumpy]

Yup Cgrey8o .. i read ya post on using the carriage bolt and the factory clutch lines and all.. and this is prob the way i will go too .. as i said the other day .. i might not have the $$$$ to do the swap yet ...... but i am and have been reading up and gathering parts and supplies for about 2 1/2 years now and am getting closer and closer to doing this when my taxes come in in late February

what radiator did you use ?? i want one that drops in with no cutting.. tucks under the Rad support .. like the 4 core all aluminum Griffin one .... or something like that .. i dont want to run a factory 2 core one because of the plastic tanks on the sides .. i just feel better if its all aluminum .. less chance of a leak or a cracked side tank .. it really doesnt matter if its got the tranny fluid cooler in the tank or not .. but IF it does then im going to use that as either an oil cooler or make me a kit that takes the tranny fluid and pumps it thru the Rad to cool it even more then pump it back to the tranny .. I got ALOT of lil ideas like that that i have just sat here and thought about ... i got enuff time to just sit here and think with me beign disabled and all .... lol

OH .. i also never got ANY responses on having some Fender well exit headers .. any input ?? i know that IF i do have those custom built that i will either have to trim the inner plastic skirts or remove them completely .... and move all the wiring harnesses but it would be a one of a kind for a small block in a ranger ..... i have seen them kinds of headers in a Ranger but it had a Big Block in it ..

OK ... if i have any more questions or ideas or thoughts on ANY of this ill post them .. but for now i got to go load up a 94 GMC Jimmy S-15 on my trailer and tow it to the shop so i better set off for now .... BBL ...