L&L conversion kit

[avionx]

Well I hit my first roadblock today. The L&L conversion kit doesn't list what years it's for and says it won't work with rack & pinion, which is what I have. It looks like the 3 subkits will work, but the 4th kit, with the headers, won't fit with the rack. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[Foxracin]

Only options for headers on a 98 up Ranger are stock explorer manifolds, torque monster(high dollar but really nice), customs, and I tihnk ford racing makes a set. Easiest thing ofr you to do motor mount wise is find a wrecked 5.0 Exploder and take everything off it and swap it over to the ranger. Its pretty much bolt on.

[cgrey8]

Agreed. If you can get an Explorer 5.0L from a similar year as yours, it'll be all but a bolt-in solution. There will be some things that will change like you'll need the Explorer's dash so your tach will read correctly, and some other details like overcoming the PATS security that's in the 98-up Explorer EECs, but each of these things have known work arounds to get you going.

For all intensive purposes, the engine bay of Explorers and Rangers is identical. There may be some things that are different, but it's really close to being the same...so close I never understood why Ford never upgraded the Ranger to a rack-n-pinion so they could offer the Ranger in a 5.0L option along with the Explorer.

And yes FMS makes a set of Explorer headers to fit the GT40p heads as well as some "generic" GT40p headers that are more designed for running GT40p heads in a Mustang. The Explorer headers work and fit great, but don't look anything like what you think of as a header. For your year truck, I'd HIGHLY recommend you bite the bullet and get the Torque Monster headers. They look absolutely bizarre and will definitely stand out when you open the hood. I'd have them in my truck but there's just not enough room in the pre-95 Ranger engine bays for them. 95 was the 1st year Ranger that the Torque Monster header will work.

[Dave]

There are no kits made for the '98' and newer Ranger swaps. The wiring is really mostly a plug and play with a matching year explorer wiring/computer. Like Fox said, the header selection is getting rather limited. Ford no longer have the SVO headers that would work. The stock tube type are junk, the cast iron ones are a lot better. I think someone found another option but I'd have to check to be sure. The Torque Monster headers run about $750 but he will make them to fit any chassis or heads you want to run and are good up to about 380HP. With having a 4x2, you are going to need different motor mounts (if you have the coil spring front suspension as to the torson bar front end). I have the number of the engineer at Ford who can set you up with the correct plans to fabricate them, think it's only $19.95 for the plans
Dave

[cjcnomor4]

last time i checked on explorerforums, there was a guy with a set in a b2.

[Dave]

Hey Chris,
No need to change dash boards either, the later Rangers and Explorers have the same tach, just need to move a couple on pins on one connector to make it all work. Got that info all squirlled away somewhere, god forbid this computer ever dies, who backs them up anyway. Glad to see you got some rain down there.
Dave

[avionx]

First let me say that I really appreciate all of this advice. I think I'm really going to like it on here.

I forgot to mention one other thing. While I love the explorer/mountaineer donor idea, I have a totally complete, very built 93 5.0 mustang crate motor/trans/harness/ecu/full front dress with over $5k invested sitting on a stand in my garage. That makes getting an SUV donor really a bad idea at this point. Any ideas? We have no emmissions here in Little Rock.

[avionx]

[quote="Dave"]There are no kits made for the '98' and newer Ranger swaps. The wiring is really mostly a plug and play with a matching year explorer wiring/computer. Like Fox said, the header selection is getting rather limited. Ford no longer have the SVO headers that would work. The stock tube type are junk, the cast iron ones are a lot better. I think someone found another option but I'd have to check to be sure. The Torque Monster headers run about $750 but he will make them to fit any chassis or heads you want to run and are good up to about 380HP. With having a 4x2, you are going to need different motor mounts (if you have the coil spring front suspension as to the torson bar front end). I have the number of the engineer at Ford who can set you up with the correct plans to fabricate them, think it's only $19.95 for the plans
Dave

Cool. I will look forward to getting those plans. As for "PLUG & PLAY". You don't mean I can leave the Ford/Mazda Wiring harnesses in place and swap in a EFI 5.0 do you? The B4000 is coil spring and Rack & Pinion.

[cgrey8]

If you went with the Explorer swap, you could leave every bit of the Ranger/Mazda wiring harness in place. Even the connectors on the engine would plug right in with the harness that currently plugs to your 4.0L. The snag in everything that's been said is you already have an engine. That changes the dynamics of nearly everything we've already told you so far. So before we goof you up further, list out what the engine is, what heads, what front dress (i.e. accessories) and from what vehicle, and most importantly what transmission.

The problems I see are not going to be getting your engine in there and running. You could do that with a carb and a vacuum advance distributor. The problem is going to be getting everything around it working like the ABS, Dash speedometer, etc. At some point the dash got away from a cable and started using the ABS computer to communicate the vehicle speed to the engine computer. Then the engine computer relayed that info onto the dash. So you may be looking at a custom dash anyway.

[avionx]

1999 Mazda B4000, 4-door xtra cab, 4.0, 2WD, 5spd automatic, loaded

5.0 short block / AFR 185 aluminum heads / complete ECU harness with ECU / complete engine harness / trick flow intake (stock too) MSD ignition / complete stock 1993 EFI setup and complete Mallory Race fuel system / Stack of EEC-IVs including EEC-tuner

I also have a T-5, but I want automatic which tranny is easiest to get in there? Primary use = 75% parts/landscaping transporter 25% dragster

[avionx]

If you went with the Explorer swap, you could leave every bit of the Ranger/Mazda wiring harness in place. Even the connectors on the engine would plug right in with the harness that currently plugs to your 4.0L. The snag in everything that's been said is you already have an engine. That changes the dynamics of nearly everything we've already told you so far. So before we goof you up further, list out what the engine is, what heads, what front dress (i.e. accessories) and from what vehicle, and most importantly what transmission.

The problems I see are not going to be getting your engine in there and running. You could do that with a carb and a vacuum advance distributor. The problem is going to be getting everything around it working like the ABS, Dash speedometer, etc. At some point the dash got away from a cable and started using the ABS computer to communicate the vehicle speed to the engine computer. Then the engine computer relayed that info onto the dash. So you may be looking at a custom dash anyway.

Cgrey8,
What year donors would make for the easiest swap? I would be very interested in AWD.
Matt.
Matt.

[cgrey8]

I'm not the BEST one to answer that question, however I will offer the tidbits I've heard. The 98 Explorer 2wd engine & tranny, using a 97 EEC, installed in a 98 Ranger 2wd is the closest plug-n-play option there is. Engine mounts, drive shaft, everything are reusable. The reason for the swap-out to the 97 EEC is that the 98 and up Explorer EECs implemented PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) which requires that you replace your key ignition and key with the one used in the Explorer. Reverting to a 97 EEC removes the need to do that since PATS wasn't implemented then, but other than that, the EEC functions exactly the same. However most of the similar year Explorer/Ranger options should interchange fairly easily. In 98 is when the Rangers went to a Rack-n-pinion. So no oil filter relocator is needed for 98-up Rangers, but still is needed on 97s...not a problem for you.

Also in 98, the Explorers went returnless fuel. I think the Rangers did too but not 100% on that. If your Ranger is not returnless, you'll have to retrofit your engine to work with your fuel line setup.

Keep in mind that the EEC controls the speed of the fuel pump on MOST returnless systems, however the Explorer is an exception. If I remember correctly, the Explorers have returnless, but simply locate the fuel pressure regulator at the tank so the pump short-cycles excess fuel back into the tank without running up to the engine bay. The benefit of returnless systems is you don't heat fuel across the top of the engine, then return a portion of that heated fuel to the tank. Heat makes the gas and air in the tank expand. It also causes the gas to literally change grade while its in the tank. In the winter months, "winter blend" fuel contains more butane. Butane is used because it is extremely cheap. It is also preferred in winter blend gas because it helps the fuel to atomize into the air when it is injected. Cold fuel has a tendency to not want to atomize, so it's no surprise that butane is found in higher quantities in winter blend fuel. Although it is more stable while mixed into gasoline, it will evaporate right out of the fuel and do so faster than the other distillates that make up gasoline. When this happens, the concentration of butane changes which causes the fuel to burn differently and atomize into the air slower. So as an emissions effort, mfgs started designing returnless fuel systems so you don't heat the gasoline and increase the rate of butane evaporation out of the fuel. And of course it has the same benefit in the summer. Summer blend fuels don't have as much butane because the warmer the fuel the quicker the butane wants to escape the fuel. And when the fuel is warm, it doesn't need as much "help" atomizing into the air when injected. The downside is butane is cheaper than the other combinations of distillates the refineries can use. So summer fuel increases in cost because they can't use as much butane and instead have to use more expensive components.

Well, that was probably more about fuel than you really cared about. I just thought I'd share that tidbit since I just recently read it myself.

[avionx]

My B4000 has PATS. Does that make it any less drama to use a PATS donor ECU?

[cgrey8]

If you want to maintain PATS, you'll have to swap out your ignition and key for the one in the Explorer donor. Although I believe there is also an option to have the dealer reflash your Explorer EEC with your existing key. I don't know anybody that has done that, but I think it is an option. And if it is, I'm not sure how much the dealer would charge to do it.

[Dave]

No problem sticking with what sounds like a good motor, what cam, just wondering. Them 185 AFR heads are really great but depending on the total combonation (cam/intake), might be a little bit of overkill. The problem with the later '98' and newer Ranger swaps is that you are just about stuck using the Explorer computer/coil pack ignition and engine wiring harness if you want to keep EFI and make the swap easy. If you have PAT'S like you say, just a tow to the local dealer where he can reprograme the ECU. Just no easy way around it with PAT's, if you had one with-out the pats, you could go back and use the '97' Explorer wiring and computer.
Dave