Bullitt Wheels needed spacers?

87sc302 · Post by **87sc302** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:18 pm

I just purchased a set of 2001 Mustang bullitt 17 x 8 wheels. The rear went on perfect but the front required 1/4" spacers. I was surprised because everyone said they would just bolt on.

Anybody else tried these?

87 EX Cab 2wheel drive.

MalcolmV8 · Post by **MalcolmV8** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:08 pm

Do you need spaces because of the rim contacting the lower shock bolt at full turn? or why do you need spacers? Just curious.

87sc302 · Post by **87sc302** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:24 pm

Wheels will not go all the way over the center of bearing hub. Therefore the back of wheel will not seat against the stud rotor wheel face.

No other problems

broncobowsher · Post by **broncobowsher** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:18 pm

I had a set of 17" '98 GT wheels for a while. The wheel holes were larger then the hub flanges on the axle, so the wheels were now lugcentric instead of hubcentric. Not worried as that is how most of the aftermarket wheels are as well.

But I didn't like them. Tires rubbed the sway bar on the front. The scrub radius was way off and it tracked like poo. Put the 14" back on for more of the sleeper look.

bigburl · Post by **bigburl** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:43 pm

I put a set of 17x8 Bullits on my truck and had to add a 1" spacer because no one had a 1/2 inch spacer. The reason was that the hub stuck through the wheel and would not allow the center cap to fit on. Since the rear end is an explorer and is 3 inches wider, the 1 inch spacers make my wheels track about evenly.
Larry

GregR · Post by **GregR** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:33 pm

You can have the center of the Bullit wheels honed out to fit over the Ranger hubs. All this does is take out the ridge that the center cap snaps onto and does not weaken the wheel. You won't be able to use the Bullitt center caps. In the past I've made center caps that fasten to the wheel with set screws. The '05+ Mustang spinner type center caps look like they'll work but you'll have to find a way to attach them. Good luck.

87sc302 · Post by **87sc302** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:33 pm

I did not want to modify wheels but I did take the hubs(disc) off and took about 1/8 " off hub that holds the grease cap and tapered it at about 45 deg and the wheels fit perfect.

Thanks everyone for the information.

Adam McLaughlin · Post by **Adam McLaughlin** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:19 pm

Can you elaborate on that one a little but? I have a set of Bullitts that I would like to make fit on the front spindles easily. Do you have any snapshots?

Did you just grind the spindle down and punch the grease cap back in?

Adam

87sc302 · Post by **87sc302** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 12:07 am

I do not have any photos of the hub modificatons but I will try to get one tomorrow.

But what I did was take the hubs off the truck and stuffed a rag in the center of it to keep any debris front getting in bearing area.

I marked the hub about 1/8"around so I could keep the grinding fairly even all around.

Using a 4" side grinder I took about 1/8" off and then tapered the edge back about 45 degrees.

I had a wheel set up to test fit so as I would grind the hub a little then I would fit check it. After the hub fit flat on the hub stud base surface ( no rocking motion) I would rotate the hub to several mounting locations to verify clearance in any rotation of wheel to hub. You do not want a one way fit that could bust or crack wheel.
The key to me was test fitting very often to verify minimum metal removal.

This process only took about thirty minutes per wheel including wheel removal and replacing.

If someone has a brake rotor turning machine I assume you might be able to use that to turn the end down.

Note the grease cap will fit but will stick out too far for use of std wheel caps.

It takes a little time but well worth it

Adam McLaughlin · Post by **Adam McLaughlin** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 12:21 am

This is great information.

Your idea is pretty close to what I did, but I went the opposite way. I ground out the inside of the wheel where it touched the spindle bearing hub. Took hours, but allowed me to fit my wheels on my truck too.

You'll notice that my stance is a bit odd compared to yours - my truck has the stock 5.8 L intake on it, which is VERY tall and required me to run a 3" body lift to allow the hood to close. Now that the truck has been smogged again, I am going to swap out that extra tall intake for a car style so I can shut the hood. I also need to re-re-weld the upper radiator hose inlet for the all aluminum radiator so it will clear the alternator. I am running stock truck accessories in my swap.

I have the DJM suspension drop on my truck. I am really looking forward to getting that body lift out of there, and getting everything back down much lower than it has been.

)

Adam

87sc302 · Post by **87sc302** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:59 am

Nice truck, I like the color.

This was my first complete paint job so I picked a good color(oxford gray) to mask my lack of skills but it came out better than I expected.

Now I wish I had used a different color.
Oh well

cjcnomor4 · Post by **cjcnomor4** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:47 am

i got 1 1/4" spacers and the wheels fit fine

Adam McLaughlin · Post by **Adam McLaughlin** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:42 pm

Humm... I am interested. Where did you get those spacers?

Yeah, my truck was also my first complete paint job as well. I picked 2004 Competition Orange. I also laid down several coats of 72500 over it. The pictures don't do it justice, the truck looks like you are looking into a big piece of orange glass.

Adam