Mileage

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:30 pm

Nice...

MalcolmV8 · Post by **MalcolmV8** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:11 pm

GregR wrote:The VSS used in the 4R70W is the exact same unit used in the '90 Mustangs with cruise control. If you pry the little cap out of the end of the 4R70W speed sensor, a speedometer cable will slip right in.

Not true in all cases. I'd have to go back and search my old posts for exact details since it's been a while but I can tell you the 4r70w I got out an AWD explorer is not like that. When you pulled out the speed sensor (not called VSS, I forget what it was, something like OSS) there was nothing more than an exciter ring there like what you see on the back of a ring gear in a rearend with ABS. There was no way to run a mechanical cable without tearing down the tranny and installing a drive gear inside there to drive a cable.

So I drove my speedo cable from the transfer case.

BTW - if someone is looking for a way to drive a mechanical speedo from an electrical signal I still have this Cable X unit which I'd let go.
http://www.v8-ranger.com/blue/cablex/cablex.php

dagger · Post by **dagger** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:16 pm

Well I can see that I have some research on this whole thing. I'm really not that worried about installing the engine and transmission, or even the transfer case for that. The drive shafts I can have shortened or lengthened for what I need. The electrical is where I really wonder as what to do. The other big thing is that I need to go to my DMV around here and ask a few questions about doing a swap like that. I know that on some you have to get the truck over a certain weight limit and it then becomes a commercial vehicle or something like that. I know that a lot of people say not to go carbed for off roading but they have carbs built for it so I'm not worried. Is EFI really worth it for both drive ability and mileage. I don't know much about electrical but if I had a read out I can understand I'd do it.

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:41 pm

I have a strong affinity for injection, just because I enjoy the technology side of things. But I also have to admit that carbs do simplify things A LOT. And as long as you size the carb right, they can give very similar fuel economy as EFI. However if you oversize the carb, you'll certainly have problems especially at the lower RPMs where airflow is low. A spread-bore or sometimes referred to as progressive carbs that have tiny little primaries and huge secondaries give the best all-around driveability by emulating an undersized carb to keep driveability at the lower RPMs good but giving you power at the higher RPMs via the big bore secondaries.

The catch with carbs is if you have emission requirements to maintain, a carb is NOT going to pass by itself. You might come up with some kind of air injection system that will allow you to run CATs and still pass (aka smog pump). But most of the time, if the state has emission requirements, they have requirements on how the swap can be done. Some states emission requirements are down right ridiculous and make no sense what so ever with how strict they are. Others are quite reasonable for pre-1996 vehicles in that all you have to do is have CATs, pass the sniff test, & they really don't care how you pass as long as you pass. But to pass pretty much requires that you have the ability to trim-n-respond the fuel delivery with the benefit of O2 sensors (i.e. EFI).

For 1996 and newer, most all states require that the car be capable of being connected to via OBD-II for testing. Some states do have what they call a second chance option for 96-up vehicles if the EEC is indicating a failure OR it cannot be communicated to that basically falls back to testing the engine the way they would test a pre-96 vehicle. Most states don't offer that.

dagger · Post by **dagger** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 7:10 am

Alright that gave me some good information. i have to check out what the DMV says and then I'll have to decide. I like that idea with the carb with the small primaries and big secondaries.

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 7:46 am

I believe most of the spread bore carbs have vacuum secondaries. If you find one that doesn't, opt for one that does. Vacuum secondaries will help if you've oversized the carb by limiting when the secondaries can open based on vacuum. Nothing is more embarrassing than sitting at a light and punching it just to have the engine take a dump while the ricer next to you is mooning you with his fart can sounding like a pissed-off sewing machine...which is what can easily happen if you oversize the carb.

Carbs are one of the most commonly oversized parts on a vehicle because people don't fully understand that a carb doesn't make the engine power. It only supports whatever power the engine can make. Oversizing the carb doesn't help. And for most stock to moderately modded motors, a 450-600cfm carb is going to do best...with the 450 on a 100% stock motor and a 600cfm for a motor with aftermarket Heads, Cam, Intake, (H/C/I) and headers. If you have H/C/I mods and a 347 stroker kit, then you might have an excuse to up to a 650cfm, but most likely a 600cfm would still serve that combo better than a 650cfm if driveability and fuel economy are more important than squeezing out another 5-10hp@WOT. Naturally aspirated 302-based SBFs that truly "need" over a 600cfm carb are not going to be engines you expect to drive daily or pick up groceries with. But still you'll have people that want to throw a 750cfm carb on 100% stock (non-performance oriented) 302s from F150s and LTDs.

dagger · Post by **dagger** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 8:13 am

Yeah, now say I get a vehicle that has the engine and transmission and transfer case I need. can I use the motor mounts on those or am I going to need to get or make my own? I ask because I found a kit on some L&L website that offers a conversation kits for $1,200. It has the headers, oil pan, oil filter relocation, and then the motor mounts ( http://www.landlproducts.com/details.as ... temID=1143 ).

So which would be a better idea considering that the kit comes with the specific stuff for the swap. Also how about the transmission mount? Am i going to have to make one or does my stock mount work with the new transmission?

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 8:56 am

That's a topic worthy of another post so it can be tracked separate from this one. But my quick answer is I don't think you need all that, but the oil pan would be something you should heavily consider vs trying to weld up your own.

I'll discuss more when you get another topic started on the topic of "kits".