Motor mounts

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JAMMAN
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Motor mounts

Post by JAMMAN »

Do you know if the Anchor brand 2850 and 2851 are directly compatible with the ford Yl5Z-6038-CB Passenger side mount and
Yl5Z-6038-CA Driver side mount?

Also would you happen to have a spare set of the 5.0 adapter plates? I have the Amhurst Design drawings and can make my own..would save a lot of time if I just bought a couple.

Thanks again-
plowboy34
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Re: Motor mounts

Post by plowboy34 »

Not sure what you mean about Amhurst Design but if your talking about the piece that bolts to block the Explorer 5.0 mounts work.
Dirt is for Farming....Asphalt is for Racing

85 Ranger 5.0, GTP Engine, Carbed, AOD, 7.5 3:45 rear gear(for now)
77 Mustang II 302, C4, 8" rearend 3:00 gears, 4 point roll bar
73 Mustang Convertible, Bone Stock, 48,000 original miles
91 F-250 5.8W(really needs a 460) 4X4
2000 Mustang 3.8 V6, Bone Stock
2011 Ford Fusion (Momma's hot rod)
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JAMMAN
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Re: Motor mounts

Post by JAMMAN »

Only if you start with a torsion bar ranger evidently. I have a new set of expo mounts and the angle is wrong.

I read that for a coil spring ranger you needed to use 4.0 motor mounts and adapter plates. There was a guy on the now defunct RPS forum that was selling them a few years back and since this is strictly a V8 ranger forum I figured if anyone had some still laying around they might be lurking here.
plowboy34
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Re: Motor mounts

Post by plowboy34 »

Well I know for a fact you don't have to use 4.0 mounts cause I used the 2.3 mounts that bolt to the frame of truck. What I did was lower them down the frame a little to lower the engine some. I don't remember how far as that was 10+ years ago. I then made a plate out of 1/4 inch plate that bolted to the block and drilled a hole in it that went onto stud that was on frame mount. I could have used the Explorer mounts that bolt to block but being that I lowered my mounts just for the reason I wanted engine to be lower in bay I didn't need the block mounts to be so big. Instead of looking like a triangle mine are a rectangle. They are about 2" wide at max, I use to have pics on old puter but it fried and I lost everything. I will attempt to get a pic of it in truck when I get to shop, don't remember if you can see them or not. If I wouldn't have lowered the mounts I could have used the Explorer mounts no problem. I know it's hard to understand without pics but that's what I did.
Dirt is for Farming....Asphalt is for Racing

85 Ranger 5.0, GTP Engine, Carbed, AOD, 7.5 3:45 rear gear(for now)
77 Mustang II 302, C4, 8" rearend 3:00 gears, 4 point roll bar
73 Mustang Convertible, Bone Stock, 48,000 original miles
91 F-250 5.8W(really needs a 460) 4X4
2000 Mustang 3.8 V6, Bone Stock
2011 Ford Fusion (Momma's hot rod)
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cgrey8
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Re: Motor mounts

Post by cgrey8 »

Windsor engine blocks have vertically tapped engine mount holes making the mount surface horizontal.

For all Rangers up to and including 97 models, the cross member is angled such that any of the stock Ranger mounts locate the top mount's threaded stud straight up with the mount's upper mounting surface also horizontal. This allows you to use nothing more than a flat plate to go between the top of the cross member mount and the engine block. The plate just needs holes drilled in the right locations. But as stated by plowboy, the stock mount location on the cross member locates a 302 block very high in the engine bay. To get it down where it should be so you can actually get a transmission to line up, you need to relocate the mounts lower on the cross member by a few inches OR concoct something more elaborate than a flat plate.

Another option is to use L&L V8 Ranger swap mounts. This is the route I went. They advertise being a bolt-in solution, and for my 89 Ranger, they actually were. Although it is interesting to know that my 89 Ranger's cross member had a number of different bolt holes in it from the factory. The holes that aligned to the L&L mounts were NOT the same holes my stock 2.9L V6 mounts used. Somewhere around 90-91, the bolt holes that L&L mounts expect to be in the cross member are no longer there. So you still have to drill. But it's actually it's a tad easier to do with these than stock mounts. You finger-tight install the L&L mounts to the engine, then drop the engine into the engine bay. Let the bottom part of the mounts lay flat on the cross member. Align the engine exactly where you want it in the engine bay. Take a spray paint can and spray the lower mounts where the cross member bolt holes are so that the spray paint hits the cross member exposed through the holes. When you remove the engine, you'll see the spray paint on the cross member right where you drill.
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89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller

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