new 671 blower

cjcnomor4 · Post by **cjcnomor4** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 5:44 pm

only time I've had a piston hit a counterweight was with a bent rod. Never had any experience with an aftermarket crank though.

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 6:10 am

87ranger... thanks for the tune info..but way over my head all greek to me man. i'm old school, real old school. i know cfm up or down jet up or down timing more or less. my knowledge of oxygen sensor is step outside and take deep breath..aah yep good air...i'd like to get the bds fuel injection but over $3000 and a head gasket would blow in my wife. she is at her limit here lately. maybe in 6 months or 1 year. have to work with what i have right now.....the old trucker

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 7:45 am

Just to put you at ease with the Wideband O2 sensor, this is what all tuners even way back when wanted, but just didn't know they needed. What the Wideband does is tell you whether you tuned in the right direction. People that can listen to an engine and tell if the engine is tuned were good, and that used to be the best you could do. But with a wideband, you don't have to know what to listen for to tune it. You just look at the wideband and determine if idle is at the Air-Fuel Ratio (AFR) you are looking for.

With a typical tunable carb, you have basically 3 modes the carb has to work with. Idle, cruise, and hard accel/WOT. As a carb tuner, you have to not only tune each of these 3 to get the AFR right, but you have to get the transition from one mode to the other to happen at the right times. The WB can tell you this stuff while you drive.

For example in the case of metering rods and springs in a Carter/Edelbrock style carb, you can see whether your metering rods are lifting at the right time, too early, or too late. That info can tell you whether you need stronger springs or weaker springs on your metering rods. If the ratios at cruise are too lean but just right at WOT, then you know the skinny part of your rod (WOT) is right, but the fatter part of the rod (cruise) is too big and thus restricting too much fuel running it lean at cruise. If both are leaner than you'd like, then you know to install a bigger jet to let more fuel on at both modes. With a wideband, you can "see" all that happening while it happens so you can tune more effectively and confidently...not just guessing and erring on the side of rich just because rich is better than lean.

For somebody looking to make BIG HP, a WB should be part of the arsenal of tools particularly since they are quite affordable by today's standards. And the more power the engine can produce, the faster it can go from fun to expensive. You can get a WB and sensor for about $180 on eBay. Depending on how fancy of a meter to display the AFRs, you add maybe another $100-200. If you go with a used meter, it can get even cheaper than that.

BTW, here are some typical target AFRs with carbs:
Idle: 13.5-14.5AFR (richer with the choke)
Cruise: 14-14.5 AFR (richer with the choke)
Naturally Aspirated WOT: 12.5-13.5 AFR
Boosted WOT: 11-12 AFR

Does that make more sense as to what a WB is and how it's used?

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:31 am

cgrey8 ..thanks for that additional info, it's not 1982 anymore is it. that's when i had my last rod 69 stang with 429 cobra bored 60 over crane cam dual quad tunnel ram hookers built c6 456 posi. now instead of setting a good idle i can set the whole throttle range...very cool. got to get one. the 69 was quick but this small block seems a lot quicker. maybe thats old age this little truck can scare me. i just keep it cool with this one. i love the looks and comments. makes me proud. and fun...the old trucker

87ranger · Post by **87ranger** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 2:49 pm

yup, the wide bands are so easy to install, two wires and an o2 bung in the exhaust thats it, reading plugs and ground straps is a crap shoot depending on the heat range of the plug and the fuel type, you can have two different appearing plugs but a releatively identical a/f ratios, or visa versa, trust me they are easy to hookup and make tunning a breeze, once you use one youll never go back

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:23 am

update on install...fuel pressure regulator moved to fire wall, fuel lines hooked up nos lines hooked up. looks like original ranger throttle will work,need the extar lenght,still tinkering with that. cut out the bottom radiator bracket. bottom pully is through where rad used to set. no room for rad in the front. moving to roll cage in the bed. starting on that today.i'm using alumized exhaust pipe from local muffler shop.they bend, i polish with buffer. shines like aluminum. bottom crank pulley for blower does not line up with top, have to order 7/8 in spacer for bottom from bds. gilmer belt should clear v belt for water pump and alt by 1/8 to 1/4 inch. close, hope they dont wobble and hit. still waiting for new distrubitor, low profile flat cap to clear blower snout. was told it will be in jan 15. should have everthing else done by then..........the old trucker

v8ranger · Post by **v8ranger** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:18 am

Sounds like your coming along pretty good on it. I'm sure you cant wait to shake them windows again lol. I'm sure your wife can though lol.

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:28 pm

v8ranger your right. doing as much as i can. i cut aluminum brackets for new radiator mounts last night. got up at 5 oclock and spent 3 hours buffing them. plan was to install them today. but wife caught me and spent the rest of the day putting in new carpet. one of my honey do's so i could get blower. thats a lot of work. all the furniture out, carpet out, pad out, new pad in carpet in, cut kick cuss then all the furniture back in. i'm beat, but got it done.easier to work on ranger. a lot easier. start on truck again tomorrow..........the old and tired trucker

v8ranger · Post by **v8ranger** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:48 am

rojam18801 wrote:v8ranger your right. doing as much as i can. i cut aluminum brackets for new radiator mounts last night. got up at 5 oclock and spent 3 hours buffing them. plan was to install them today. but wife caught me and spent the rest of the day putting in new carpet. one of my honey do's so i could get blower. thats a lot of work. all the furniture out, carpet out, pad out, new pad in carpet in, cut kick cuss then all the furniture back in. i'm beat, but got it done.easier to work on ranger. a lot easier. start on truck again tomorrow..........the old and tired trucker

LMAO, now that just to funny. Its almost like your a little kid and your Ranger is the cookie jar lol. My wife finaly came to grips that my Ranger will never be done. She also doesnt like it when I spend time in the garage, but she just deals with it. She understands thats its more than just a truck to me. I am the second owner of my 86. My Mom bought that truck new in 86 and it was her first truck she ever bought and its my first truck, so It got allot of sentimental value to me.

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:33 am

v8 ranger your right..your first rod is important. i still think about mine way back in the 60's. well this is my last one. i could retire right now, but then won't have money to play with anymore. hope i have enough to put gas in it when i do retire. wife was with me and my buddies yesterday all of us around the ranger. she told everyone... will i don't have to worry anymore there is nothing he can buy anymore to make it any faster...that's when i said i've been thinking about putting a jet engine in the bed !!! that's when everyone went balistic. they know everthing i think about ends up on the ranger. i can just see it now at a car show, fire up the jet and burn the paint off every show car within 100 ft radias. wow what a show..lol.... the old trucker

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:54 am

update on blower install....throttle cable finished. original ranger cable works for me, with a little grinding with dremel tool, polished water pump and installed. alt set on. called blower drive service for 7/8 inch spacer. they said, oops, thier fault, sending me spacer, longer crank bolt and longer pully bolts. i have to pay shipping. cool...set fiberglass front end back on, chop, chop, chop for about 3 hours to clear everything. it got real flimsey. then the harwood snorkel bolted on. more chopping on snorkel. when snorkel back on fiberglass is stiff again. mounted rad in bed roll bars. new brackets i made for rad look really good. when looking at front of truck all you see is shiney pulleys behind grill. strange, bet it will do a number on a bird if i catch one in there. feathers everywhere. i might even have room for a 2 inch high air filter in there. or maybe have to put a scoop on my scoop. loaded ranger onto trailer last night. going to muffler shop this morning to have pipes made to plumb rad back to bed. hope they look as good as everything else does. muffler shop said they never put tail pipes on radiator before, why not use a long rubber hose. because the long alumized tailpipe will help disapate a lot of heat and i get a couple more gallons of coolant too. i am worried about it getting hot, i do live in florida. if it does run hot been thinking about the heater hose's. they are blocked off right now. what if i run them to a one core radiator to the front. i might have room for one. do you think it will help or just spending money for not much........the old trucker

cgrey8 · Post by **cgrey8** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 6:52 am

You shouldn't put a big radiator on the heater core lines. Leave it for the heater core.

The heater core lines flow all the time regardless of whether the temp is warm or not and regardless of whether your engine is up to temp or not. This is what keeps the water pump from dead-heading against a the thermostat when the thermostat is closed. Water simply diverts off to the heater core. This also is a temperature control mechanism for when you are in cold weather (i.e. at or below freezing). As the engine warms up, the warm water circulates through the heater core. This has the added benefit of heating the cab of the truck quicker too. But the heater core alone isn't big enough to cool the engine. So, once the temp of the water gets to the point that the thermostat opens, the water from the engine now has 2 paths it can follow, to the heater core or out to the thermostat to the radiator in which case, you'll flow cold radiator water into the engine. If only sub freezing radiator water flowed into the engine, then that could stress the engine and heads that are already up to thermostat temps. So what happens instead is heater core water is always mixed with incoming radiator water even when the thermostat is wide open and things are up to temp. This mixes warm heater core water that's up to temp with the cold radiator water before it enters the engine so the engine doesn't get a shock of really cold water.

If you run a big rad for a heater core, then you run the chance of over-cooling the engine and never allowing the thermostat to open. That'd be about the same as just yanking the thermostat out and running the engine "open" all the time. I know with older oils from the 70s and 80s, doing this caused sludge to build up because congealed particulates in the oil never got up to temp to melt causing sludge build up over time. With today's oils, particularly the synthetic oils, I wouldn't expect sludge to be a problem, but I would expect the viscosity of the oil to not be where it is supposed to be. Is that a big deal with today's oil? I don't know. But what I do know is thick oil doesn't handle high RPMs well a thinner oil...or oil that's thinner because its up to running temps. Again, I am doubtful that is an issue with today's oils, but I remember it was not something you wanted to do 15-20 years ago.

And on a sidenote, unless you are going to be stress-loading this engine for long periods of time at very slow speeds (i.e. mud-bugging), I wouldn't expect the engine to overheat, even in Florida. I live in Ga and my engine never overheats even in the dead of summer, sitting in stop-n-go traffic and I have a stock 2-core Ranger radiator and 2 electric pusher fans. During the summer when I'm stuck in traffic, the fans will stay wide open most of the time, but occasionally they will slow down and then pick back up again. But that tells me they are maintaining the temps. I've also confirmed that from my TwEECer datalogging software that my ECT never goes above 216Â°, while normally only going as high as 212-214Â°. If it does hit 216Â°, it doesn't stay there. The pusher fans quickly have the temps back down in the 200Â° range. So with the added water capacity you are going to have piping a radiator into the bed AND with the much larger radiator you can fit in a bed vs in the front of the truck, I think you'll have more than plenty of cooling capacity.

And a final note, if you mount the radiator horizontal or at an angle right behind the cab, make sure the electric fan is blowing air UP. With the tailgate up, the natural flow of air is to come down off the cab, flow down towards the bed, hit the top of the tailgate which forces the air straight down, then back towards the cab along the floor of the bed. The air slams into the back wall of the bed and flows straight up. That's why if you ever get a bunch of leaves or pine straw in your bed, it all ends up at the front of the bed towards the cab. So, mounting your radiator perfectly horizontal to work with that flow will help get more natural flow through the radiator...enough so you may not need the pusher fan(s) ON while you are driving down the road at cruising speeds. With my radiator in the stock position, my fans never come on while I'm driving. It's not until I come to a stop and have to sit a while that the fans come on.

MalcolmV8 · Post by **MalcolmV8** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:53 am

rojam18801, what diameter exhaust pipe are you using to run coolant lines to the radiator in the bed? That could take a ton of extra coolant to fill. Don't forget about coolant leaks or even just a simple cooling system flush, don't want those costing you hundreds of dollars in coolant each time

Since this truck is for fun and not to be used as a real truck you could remove the tail gate and custom fab in a radiator to replace the missing tail gate. Could look nice and clean if done right and you'd get plenty of air flow through it. Would be one of a kind too.

usmcrp1044 · Post by **usmcrp1044** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:01 am

I really am starting to like this truck.

Are you going to keep the hood scoop on there? I've always loved the look of a blower sticking up through the hood myself.

rojam18801 · Post by **rojam18801** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:58 pm

cgrey8... don't have a heater core, this ranger only has go quick stuff. nothing else. no place for my dr pepper either. bummer. the heater hose's i was thinking about a small rad like a large tran's cooler. i realy don't have much room left in front........ malcolmv8...radiator for tailgate,that is a really good idea. and would look neat. but already have it mounted to roll bar and just had all the pipe's made to fit this morning. beside's wife is at her limit, can't spend any more money to have new rad built......... usmcrp1044.....i want to keep the scoop. well i need to keep the scoop. i cut so much of the flip front it is really weak. bolting the scoop back on helped it stiffen up again. and if i have to leave it alone i don't want anyone to drop anything down carb or steal my air cleaner. those people that if someone has something nice they like to try and damage or destroy it. never did understand that, but they are out there.............. also while i was getting the pipes made a guy comes up, looks at ranger and said. hey i know this truck. it was lefty from this forum. he's seen it on here. my little truck is getting famous. wow that is just too cool...................the old trucker