V8-Ranger.com

When you get the engine, just look at the head markings.
3 bars is GT40
4 bars is GT40p

For your sake, it's probably best that it be GT40 heads so you can use std headers.

There was an early run of 97 Explorer 5.0Ls that did have the GT40 and was pretty much the same exact engine as the 96. But somewhere mid 97 run, they made some major changes to the engine with the biggest being the GT40p head change. From what I understand, the change was necessary to meet emission...

Based on your avatar, will you be supercharging it or just running the stock 97 Explorer as-is? The difficulty of getting a V8 under the hood isn't where the complication is. Sure there are issues and things to know. But for the most part, you just do what has to be done to get it in there. The prob...

Yeah, we have some seriously old products that we still ship as "current gen" and those products can no longer be supported with modern tools. Our emulator hardware is no longer even manufactured anymore. And with the exception of eBay used ones, if ours go bad...we are up a creek! That's ...

Is there any way to allow users to set the Board Style they view it in to subsilver (the legacy look)?

I get used to where things are and like keeping the look to classic. I have my WinXP machine at work and my Win7 laptop setup to look like Win95/98. I guess I'm getting old...

I take it you are going to sites where that does happen? Or is that most every other forum?

I admin eectuning.org and we occasionally get that but as admin, I really try to keep that to a minimum.

Are you replacing a single-core radiator? Or is the radiator old and 1/2 clogged? If it truly is an inferior cooling system issue, so-be-it. Do what you got to do to get a larger radiator in there. Although personally, I'm using a stock Ranger 2-core radiator (stock in 4wd Automatics). It was a bolt...

As long as it's a roller block, it should be fine. But even the non-roller blocks can usually be drilled to be roller blocks as of around 1985. There was a post a few years back from a guy that took a non-roller 87ish block from a truck and drill-n-tapped it to accept the roller lifter spider. The b...

When you tear into it, I'll be curious to see the pics of what this wrist pin looks like. I've never heard of wrist pins that just go bad unless there's easily explainable abuse that led to it (i.e. long-hard WOTs, detonation, poor oiling, etc). And even then, it's usually some other component that ...

It may be a waste of time if you are confident this is a lifter issue, but personally I'd pull each rocker and make sure each rocker and pushrod is good. Rocking the rockers in your hand would make obvious any damage your eyes aren't likely to see otherwise. As well, pulling the pushrod out and look...

Not sure what to tell you on that. But personally, I'd rather know what's going on so if it's something that can be fixed now without issue, it doesn't cause other problems down the road. If it's a rocker issue, that's just pulling valve covers. With a carbed setup, you should be able to do that wit...

My 331 with roller lifters and rockers, has always had an intermittent tick particularly when cold. It usually goes away. But sometimes it is loud. I just associated it with my shims having one or two of the rockers a tad high and could be just a little lower. But after oil gets flowing up to the he...

I got my answer from youtube searches. The key has been replaced for a while now.

Thanks for following up though.

I was able to find some on a google-search. Unfortunately, there's a hodge-podge of aftermarket sway bars and stock ones. The aftermarkets SHOULD be obvious and easy to differentiate as they are noticeably larger.

Interestingly, I too used a shaft from a newer Ranger which uses 1330. But my yoke is 1310, so I have to use a cross-joint.